April 1857

Previous to entering upon the work of the kitchen garden, &c., for this month, it will be proper to observe that a great portion of the open ground culture and sowing necessary to be done in some places in April, have been fully treated of in March, in order to accommodate those citizens of the middle States, whose gardens, from the nature of soil and situation, admit of early sowing, as well as a desire in many to have their crops at as early a period as possible, either for sale or family use; and also for the general accommodation of the more southerly States, that month being their principal season for gardening.

But, in the eastern States generally, and in such parts of the middle States as the ground is naturally of a binding and heavy nature, this will be the most eligible period for sowing their general garden crops; always observing to sow the hardy kinds as early in the month as the soil, season, and situation will admit of.

Examine your cucumber and melon beds, and if any have declined in heat, especially in the early part of the month, line them with fresh dung, as directed on page 25: this will be necessary, in order to obtain plentiful crops of fruit.

As the sun is now become very powerful, all kinds of plants which you have in hot-beds will require abundance of air, and occasional shade; for if the beds were left close shut only for a few hours during the prevalence of a hot mid-day sun, the whole would be scorched to death: therefore you ought never to leave the garden at such times without first raising the glasses and giving shade to the plants if thought necessary.

In order to have successional crops of cucumbers and melons, you may in the early part of this month make new hot-beds, either for the reception of plants or for sowing the seeds; observing the directions given in the former months, as well for these, as the due attention which fruiting and other plants require.

Make hot-bed ridges about the middle of this month for the cucumber and melon plants raised last month, in order to be planted under hand or bell-glasses. For this purpose make trenches three feet wide and two deep, in a warm dry part of the garden, and fill them to the surface with good fresh horse-dung, as directed in January for other hot-beds; then you may either earth them directly, or two or three days after, when the dung will be settled and the heat risen to the top of the bed, laying from seven to nine inches thick of light rich earth over every part.

When this is done and all the surface made smooth, lay on your hand or bell-glasses in the middle of the ridge four feet asunder, and keep them close down till the dung has thoroughly warmed the earth, then proceed to put in the plants.

In ordor to have cauliflowers in good perfection, you must be pro vided with stout early plants, such as are strong, and in the middle Stata, perfectly fit for planting out, early this month: being fursisted with these, seleot a piece of very rich loam, rather indining to moisture, but by no means wet. and such as will not be subiect either to burn or become stiff and bound by severe drought, always avoiding sand or clay. no much ne mossible: dive it at lenst four ave inches deep of well rotted cow-dung, or if this cannot be bac Then in the frat wook of this month, toke up your plants, whic were managed as directed in the preceding month, with a transplanter or hollow trowel, one by one, preserving as much earth as possible about their roots, and plant them down to their leaves in rows three feet asunder, and the same distance plant from plant, in the row, forming a little hollow basin like) about eight inches over, and tro deep, round every plant to receive water occasionally, till ft for earth ing hon P; and which, immediately previous to landing the plants e filled with good compost earth, if convenient Then gire each a little water, which repeat at intervals of three or four days till in a vigorous growing state, and afterwards occasionally. after having hirst manured and dug the ground, you may mak trenches as if for celery, in the direotion of north and south; and in the bottom of each lay four inches deep of well rotted cow-dung cast thereon five or six inches of earth, and point over the whole will a spade, mixing the earth and dung effectually: in these trenches plant your cauliflower plants at the above distances, and give occa. sional waterings as before.

To attempt planting cauliflowers in poor ground would be labor in vain; they love, nay, they require a deep, very rich, and moist loam, and agree exceedingly well with large quantities of manuro. You should be provided with hand-glasses, garden-pots, or corers made of two boards, each a foot long, and nailed together at right angles, to cover every plant at night and in very severe weather for two or three weeks after planting; observing to take them off early each morning, except the weather is desperate, and never to keep a dark covering over the plants longer than necessity requires. This oceasional protection is necessary to keep them in a constant and uninterrupted state of vegetation, for if stunted, at this period by frost or too much cold, many will button, and very few produce large flowers.

The early cauliflowor plants, under hand-glass, should have eart drawn up to their stems. This will be of a great service in promoting a strong forward growth. Too hand or bell-glasses may still be continued over these plants at night, and in cold wet weather; but in warm days, and when there are mild rains, let them be exposed to the free air; when the plants are considerably advanced in growth, the glasses should be raised pro porconably high on props; first drawing a border of earth, tro or three inches high or more, round each plant; then place the prot upon that, and sot the glasses thereon; but towards the end of this monta, or beginning of next, they should be taken entirely away. the above instructions will suit any part of the Union, except as to time of planting, which should, in every place, be on the ere of the first bris spring vegetation, when no danger can be apprehended from subsequent frosts; and where this can done in Decomber, January, or February with safety, so much the better Young cauliflower plants, raised from seed sown last month, abou now be ward them for final transplanting. out into nursery beds, or some in a hot-bed, to for.

Culifover seed may be sown, any time this month, in the open ground, to raise plants for heading in October, so. For the further treatment of cauliflowers, see May.

is early in this month as possible plant out your general crop f cabbage plants, observing to set all the early heading kinds at th distance of two feet every way, and all the late sorts at that of three feet. As to soil and preparation, the nearer you approach in both to that directed for cauliflowers, the larger cabbages you will have; but where they are desired very early, you must adapt the soil and situation to that purpose. Some of the cabbage and savoy plants which were sown in March, for a succession of young summer and autumn cabbages, and a for. ward autumn crop of savoys, should be thinned out and pricked into nursery-beds, to get strength before they are planted out for good.

Let this be done when the plants have leaves one or two inches broad; prepare beds of good earth about three feet and a half wide, in an open situation, and let the largest plants be drawn out regu. Jarly from the seed-bed, and planted in those prepared for them, at four or five inches distance every way. Water them immediately, and repeat it occasionally in dry weather. The smaller plants which are left in the seed-beda, should be oleared from weeds; give them a good watering to settle the earth about their roots, loosened in drawing out the others; they will then grow strong, and in two or three weeks be in fine order for transplantation,

Sow now a general assortment of cabbage seeds, such as early York, early sugar-loaf, and early Battersea, to succeed those sova in barch, and large late Battersea, large late sugar-loaf, flat Dutch, drum-head, large English, large Scotch, flat-sided, and Savoys, for autumn and winter use. bage, to succeed those own in the former months Sow also the seed of the red pickling cab- The earlier you sow all these kinds, the larger nad better cabbages will you have. Sor these seods tolerably thin, in open beds or borders, and seep them free from weeds, till it for planting out; or if they are transplanted into other beds, when shout four inobes bich, it will greatly strengthen them, and render them in a much better condition for final transplanting

The varietieg of this nrel. Green ourled. 8. Thick-leaved curled. 2. Red curled. kale. 4. Finely fringed. 5. Siberian, or Scotch For the garden these may be treated in every respect as winter cabbages; they are extremely bardy, and nover so delicious as when rendered tender by smart froste; they are very valuable plants t cultivate, particularly in the more southerly States, as they will there be in the greatest perfection durine the winter months: they pil also, it planted in a gravelly soil and in a sheltered warm situation, bear the winters of the middle States, and may be kept in great perfection in the eastern States if managed as directed which see.

The deliciousness of their sprouts in spring, surpasses everything of the kind, which they produce in great abundanco The seeds of other sort may be sown any time this month, and treated in every particular as directed for cabbages. The green and red borecole, is also a very useful green food for sheep; because, it is not only hardy, but if sown in time, will grow three or four feet high, and may in deep snows be got at by these animala, who frequently suffer much for want of food in such cases.

The turnip-cabbage produces its bulb or protuberance, which approaohes to roundness, on the stem above ground, immediately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, and about the size of a tole- Tably large garden turnip. The bulb or protuberance must be stripped of its thick fibrous rind, and then it may be treated and used a ce Some of their bulbs grow to twenty-three inches in circumference and weigh upwards of twelve pounds The seeds may now be sown and the plants afterwards treated as you do cabbage, only that in earthing up the plants when grown toa good size, you must be cautious not to over the globular part, which 19 to be eaten.

They are much more hardy han turnips, and in turope are cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for table use; in either case they treat them as they do cabbages, or sow them like turnips, and afterwards hoe them out to proper distances. The turnip-rooted cabbage has an oblong, thick root, pretty much of the form of the winter radish, but very large, and is a valuable article to cultivate for cattle, as it produces, with proper oare, from twenty-five to thirty tons per acre. It is extremely hardy, and very seldom injured by frost, and would be found an excellent sheep food in April, where the frosts are not overly desperate.

It merits attention from the farmer, and is frequeatly weed for oulinary purposes in the same manner as the turnip-cabbage. delicious greens in spring. The tope and sprouts make

The Brussels sproute is an open-honded cabbage, growe very high, and is remarkable for producing a great quantity of excellent sprout in spry Jerusalem kale is one of the most hardy plants of the cab bage tribe; it never heads, but the leaves, after being pinched by smart frost make most delicious greens. and boil greener than any other of the cabbage kind, it boars a very sovero winter, and afiords a grateful supply when most other plants perish Both these kinds are cultivated in the same manner as cabbages heir seeds may now be sown; but let it be observed, that they stand the winter frosts better when planted in a gravelly soil than in any

There are several varieties of the broccoli, which are all but late heading varieties of the cauliflower, such as the Purple Cape, the Waloheren and white Cape, the green and black broccoli, with some others; but the purple and white Cape are in most estimation. The seeds should be sown in the early part of this month, if not before, and afterwards, when of due size, pricked out in beds at the distance of four inches apart and watered, there to remain till arrived of suf. ficient strength for planting in the quartors where intended to produce their flowers or heads. The early purple broccoli, if sown early in this month and planted as you do cabbage, in good rich ground, will produce fine heads in October or November, very little inferior to cauliflowers, and by many preterred to them; the white will not flower so early, and in the middle and eastern States must be taken up in November and managed as directed in that month, by which a supply of this very •delicious vegetable may be had in great perfection during all the winter and spring.

In such of the southern States as their winters are not more severe than in England, they will stand in the open ground, and continue to produce their fine flowers from October to April. In the middle, and espeoially in the castern States, if the seeds are sown early in Norch on a hot-bed, and forwarded as is done with caulifowers and obtaining large and early flowers. these kinds produce heads exactly like the cauliflower, only that soma • are of a purple color, some green, some black, and the white kind o exatly resomble the true cauliflower, as to be scarcely distinguished therefrom, either in color or taste. If any plants were raised in the preceding months, let some of them be prioked out now into nursery beds, to get strength for planting out finally.

Continue to or successional crops of peas every ten or trelve days, a dirested in pages 140 and 104, to whioh I refer you for in- You may now Bow the dwarf-sugar and the darf Spanish-pens; they are both plentiful bearers, and do not renuire to be rodded, as they never rise more than from twelve to eichteen inches high. They are to be Bova in drille to cet asunder, very thin, and covered about two inches deep. Bishop's dwarf pen is, perhaps, the most prolific and proftable o the whole family; it bears most abundantly, and is very delicious; it the soil, and may, or may not be rodded, but if having some support, rises to the height of from two and a half to three feet, according to the produce will be the greater.. The tall crooked sugar pea is particularly worthy of cultivation kidney-beans, and are uncommonly sweet and delicious; these to a considerable height, and require rods from saven to cighi fet high, and to be sown in drills at least four feet asunder.

If you sowed no peas in the preceding months, the early frame, early Warwick, and Charleton kinds should now be sown for first crops; and for succession, the Champion of England, or the dwarf marrowfat, and blue imperial, and blue Prussian kinds. planted in drills at the distance of six feet at least, and be rodded or sticked to the height of six feet or more, by which you may expect very abundant crops. for the early frame and other kinds, and also for the pearl peas and Essex-rending, all of which are very prolife bearers. Draw earth to such rows of peas as are up and advanced a little in height, which will strengthen the plants and forward them greatly in their growth.

This earthing should always be performed, for the first time, whoa the plants are about three or four inches high. Be very particular to rod or place sticks to such rows of peas as have attained the height of five or six inches; if this is not timely • attended to, the crops will be greatly injured, for peas are never so productive as when rodded before they begin to fall to either one side or the other. for the method of doing which, see page 195.

In the early part of this month you may plant long-pod and Windsor beans, with every other variety of that species. alaya most productive when planted early; but if you are desirous of a succession of this kind of bean as long as possible, your late crops must be of the early Mazagan, early Lisbon, or green Genon kinds, bat mure particularly the latter, as it bears our summer heat better than any of the whole family. For particulars, see page 195. Such beans as are advanced in growth to the height of four or five inches must have some earth dravn up to their stems, which wil greatly refresh and strengthen them.

Transplant lettuces of every kind that reguire it, where they stand too close. both those of the winter stonding or such as wore BOWD in any of the former monthg. and are now grown to a enfoient siz Choose a spot of dood around for thoce alante, and if moderately beneficial to their growth; the ground evenly one spade deep, and rake to eir geomost, then plant ta lettuces about ten or twolve inches distant each way; wator them intediately, and repeat it occasionally in dry veather till they bare taken good root. For the method of planting the kinds most deserving of cultivation, and other particulars, see page 196. Continue to sow a variety of the best kinds of lettuce onco every two weeks, that there may be a regular succession.

Dig a spot of Soatter a few seeds among general

Sow small salading generally about once every week or fortnight; the sorts are lettuce, cresses, mustard, rape, radish, &c. Dig a bed of light mellow earth for these seeds, and rake the surface fine. Draw some flat, shallow drills, sow the seeds therein, each kind separate, and cover them lightly with earth. Water them moderately if the weather should be dry, which will greatly promote their growth. For more particulars respecting small salading, see pages 132 and 199.

Thin the general crops of radishes where they have arisen too thiok, leaving the plants about two or three inches asunder, and olear them from weeds. Radish seed, both of the short-topped, salmon-colored, and white and searlot turnip sorts, should be sown at three different times this month, by which means a constant supply of young radishes may be obtained, allowing about twelve days between each time of Sowing; choosing at this season an open situation for the seed; Bow it evonly on the surface, cover, or rake it well in, and the plants will come up in a few days, and be of proper size for drawing in three or four weeks. the crops of early radishes in general should be often watered in dry weather; this will promote their sclling freely, and will prevent their growing hot and stoky or a tbin sprinkling of radish-sed among other low growing top; such will generally be found very good.

Turnip-rooted radishes, of both the white and red kinds, should now be sown, and treated as directed on page 198 Thin such of em as wore sown last month to two or three inches apart. You may, likewise, Bow some of the white Spanish radishes; but the general time for sowing that and the binal winton Wind is June. Julv and August.

Continue now to sow seed of the round-leaved spinago every ten• or trolve daye, grecably to the directions given on page 198, whic •

see. plants to three, four, or five inches distance. Hoe the spinage sored in the former months, and thin the

Carrots may now be sown for a full crop; but in order to have tolerable sized roots, in some reasonable time in summer, let the seed be sown the beginning of the month. Where, however, a supply of young carrots is required, it is proper to perform three different sowings this month; the first in the beginning, the second about the middle, and the third towards the Parsneps may also be sown in the beginning or middle of this month; but if later, the crop will not succeed well, at least not to have large swelling roots in full perfection. For the method of sowing both carrots and parsneps, see pago 199 Note.—There are several varieties of the garden carrot; differing in the color of their roots; such as the orange, white, yellow, and dark red.

These variations may be continued by taking care not to • mix them together in the sume garden. There is another variety called the horn-carrot, differing in the form of its root, the lower part terminating in a round, abrupt manner, and not tapering of gradually like the others; this is the earliest sort, is of an orange color, and very delicious; and should always be sown for a first crop. The long orange carrot is the best for a principal crop. They all do light and thrive in a deep, rich, sandy loom.

The young celery plants, arising from the seed son in February or March for an early crop, will be fit to prick out now, some in the beginning, and others towards the middle or latter end of the month into a nursery-bed of rich light earth, or in a hot-bed, to forward them still more. Prepare a spot of ground, form it into three or four feet wide beds, and rake the surface smooth; then thin out a quantity of the beat plants from the seed-bed, and plant them into the above, at abou three inches distance; or you may prick some of the earliest into a moderate hot-bed to forward them; give a gentle watering, and repeat it occasionally till the plants have taken fresh root.

They should remain in these beds a month or five weeks, to got strengta before they are planted out finally into the trenches As these early own plants, after they beoome fit for use, will not continue long before they rua up for seed, there should not be mor of them raised or planted out than are necessary for an early supply Sow some celery need in the first or second week of this moneb, to rase plants for a general crop, and to succeed those which vero soya in March. Die for this purpose n hod of vich licht egoth and make the sur• face even: sow the geed thereon tolerablo think and onlo it in lightly; in dry weather give frequent moderate watering. both before aad after the plants come up, which being very esential should not be The best kinds to gor are the white solid and red-stalked celery, oth of which are very fine and blanch delightfully Those who have not the convenience of a hot bed, to raise early plants, and wish to have celery as soon as possible, will fnd the folving method of some importance. Make choice of a piece of very rich, light loom, that lies well to the sun; give it a good coat of manure, and dig it earefully in one spade deep at least; then at the distance of four feet form trenches, north and south, about ton inches deep, eight wide at bottom, and the edges sloping outvard regularly towards the centre of the ridges formed by the earth throwa up, the better to admit the sun to the seeds and plants; in the bottom of these trenches lay three inches of very old horse-dung: cast over this the some depth of earth, and with your spade dig and incorpo rate both well together; cover the whole with mould previously made fine with the rake, and draw a shallow drill with your inger in the centre of each trench, not more than a quarter of an inch leep, in which sow your seed very thin, and draw the earth lizhtl over it, just to cover the seed and no more This should be done as early in this, or the preceding month, as the ground can be got to work freely.

When the plants are up they must be kept free from weeds, and when grown a couple of inches, thinned to the distance of fve from one another, always leaving the strongest and most promising. When about eight inches high draw to their roots, on each side, three inches deep of mould, and let them grow on till of sufficient size to earth them up for blanching; then they are to be earthed in the general way Plants thus treated will arrive at porfection three weeks earlier than those managed in the common method.

• Ine forking, dressing, sowing, and planting of asparagus, if not done last month, should be performed the first week in this, particularly the forking and dressing; for the shoots will be advaning rapidly, and if not done in time they will be greatly injured, either Nemitting it altogether, or performing it at an untimely season. New nantations oucht to he mada in the enriv nart of the month? the seed may be sov at any time therein, but the oarlier the better. For the methods of doing the hole, see pages 201, 202, and 203.

Beet of every kind may now be sown with good suoss. the kinds and methods of sowing them, see page 203. For

Onion seed, if sowu in the first week of this montu, agreoably to use the same season; but if sown for the purpose of raising seed onions, or small bulbs for planting next year, the middle of the month will be the proper time, or even towards the latter end. the latter purposo should be sown pretty thick, and in poor gravell Seeds for ground; otherwise they will grow too large, or run to tops and not You may now sow a principal crop of leeks, either in drille, or a directed for onions on page 204; if in drilla, they may be landed, a you do celcry, when arrived at full size; or if in beds, they shout be transplanted in June or July, as then directed

dim your seed onions ought to be planted, if not alone in the preceding months, as early in this as possible; for they never succeed so well as by early planting. (See page 205.

These useful culinary and medicinal plants, if not attended to in the former months, should now be planted as early as possible, and as directed on page 206.

You may sow any time this month, a fall summer crop of the early Dutch, early stone, or early green turnip; they will succeed very well, and being of a quick growth, will arrive at good perfection before they are overtaken by the violent summer heats. Sor the seeds in open quarters or beds, after the ground has been well dug and sufficiently manured, tolerably thin, and as evenly a possible; if the ground is dry, tread down the seed regularly, and rate it in with a light and even hand Hoe and thin the turnips which were sown last month, leaving the plants six, seven, or eight inches distant from each other, according to the richness of the soil.

Salsafy, or Tragopogon porrifolium, is a plant by some highly and tree meet be me me not or more long • and in shope like a carrot or parsnip. Some have carried their fong ness for it so far as to call it a vegetable oyster. Its method of cultivation, &c., you will find on page 207: the seed may be sov wit good success any time this month.

There are nineteen species of scorzonera described; but the Scor zonera hispanica is that principally cultivated in gardens, for l roots; which, if sown in this month in drills. and covered about hal

an inch deep, will produce fine eatable roots for autumn and winter ned they are boiled and eaten like carrots, do and are esteemed by many. When the plants are up, they must be trend to five or six inches apart, and be kept porfecily free from weede. They may also be sown broadoast, in three or four feet wide beds, and, when up, thin them to six or seven inches distance every way.

The Sium sisarum, or skirret, is greatly esteemed as a garden veretable; its root' is composed of several fleshy tubers, as large as a man's finger, and joining together at top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper and salt; or rolled in flour and fried; or else cold with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the taste and flavor of a parsnep, but a great deal more palatable. This plant is cultivated two ways; first by seed, and second by slips from the roots: the former method I think the more eligible, because the roots which are raised from seeds generally grow larger than those raised by slips, and are loss subject to be sticky.

The seeds should be sown the latter end of Maroh, or in the beginning of this month, either broadcast or in drills; the ground Bhould be light and moist, for in dry land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves wet. The seeds may be sown broadcast or in drills, and covered half an inch deep; they will rise in five or six weeks, when they must be carefully weeded, and thinned to the distance of aix inches asunder. In autumn, when the loaves begin to decay, the roots will be fit for use, and continue so till they begin to shoot in the spring. They may he taken up on the approach of wintor, and preserved like carrots. To propagate this plant by offsets, dig up the old roots in spring, before they begin to shoot, and slip off the side shoots, preserving an eye or bud to each; plant them in rows one foot asunder, and six inches distant in the rows; and in autumn they will be fit for use as before. Or you may separato the roots that you have preserved all winter, and plant them in the same nanner.

Bow a full crop of the common and ourled parsley; and also of the large-rooted parsley, as directed last month, on page 207.

If you have yet omitted sowine the Crambe maritima, or sea kale, it may be gown the berinnine of this month. For its general culturo, see page 208, &c.

which see. Coriander and chervil may yet be gown, as directed on page 208, and soups. The latter particularly, is by many esteemed in salads

In the early part of this month, if omitted in the last, you may give ap to like set po you one o kea and i e or o per time to Bow the seed of it. For full instructions as to the performance of all the above, see pages 211, 212, &c.

Cardoons and Alexandere may yet be sowu, as directed on page 214. For their further culture, see June and July.

For the various kinds of pot and medicinal herbs, and the different methods of propagating them, either of which will answer oxtremels well in this month, but more particularly that of sowing the seeds, see page 215, &c.

For an account of, and the method of propagating Dill and Finochio or Azorian fennel, see page 216.

Horseradish may now be planted with good success, but the ear. lier in the month that it is done, the better. For the method of propagating it, see page 217.

For the general oulture of rhubarb, see page 219. The seed, if neglected to be sown in the former months, will still succeed, by In the first week of this month, it may be succesufully propagated by offsets from the root.

Jerusalem artiebokes may still be oultivated, ae directed last month, on page 222.

If omitted in the last month, plant potatoes in the beginning of this, as directed on page 217.

The Tropæolum majus, or large nasturtium, is very deserving of ultivation, as well on account of the beauty of its large and nume rous orange-colored flowers, as their excollence in salads, and their use in garnishing dishes. The green berries or seeds of this plant, which it produces abundantly, make one of the nicest pickles that can possibly be conceived; in the estimation of many, they are supenor to capers. There are, of the nastartium, a major and minor kind; the former being of a large running growth, and the most productive, is the proper sort for the above purposes. A drill may be drawn for them as practised for peas, and the seeds dropped therein, at the distance of two or three inches from one another, and covered with earth near an inch deep.

When the plants are grown about six inches, they should have sticks placed to them to run upon. Or they may be sown near hedges, fonces, or palings of any kind, on which they can climb and have support, for they will always be more productive in this way than when suffered to trail on the ground.

The early part of this month is a very good season, in the middle States, for planting liquorice. For its general culture, see page 218, &c.

The Hibiscus esculenta, or okra. The green capsules of this plant are an admirable ingredient in soups, and its ripe seeds, if burned and ground like coffee, can scarcely be distinguished therefrom. Numbers oultivate it for that purpose, and even say that it is much superior to foreiga cofice, particularly as it does not affect the nervous Bystom liko the latter. Between the middle or latter end of this month, is a proper time to so the seed in the middle States; and in the eastern States, too early part of blay; or generally, it may be sown, with certainty of success, at the time that Indian corn is planted. Draw drille about an inch deen and four foot neunder into which dron the seeds at the distance of oight inoles from one enother, or rather drop to or ta eo in each place. lest the one should not grow. and cover them near an inch deep.

As they advance in imes as you do peas, and they wilrowth, earth them up two or thro •Some plant or sow them much thinner in the rows: but ho the above metho you will bare more in quantity and as good in quality.

Sorr capsicums towards the end of this month on a warma bordor, to produce plants for planting out towards the latter end of May; or beginning of June; the large heart-shaped capsicum is in the greatest estimation for pickling, but the small upright kinds are the strongest for pepper: if they are desired at an early season, sow them on a slight hot-bed the beginning of this month, and with due care the will be fit to transplant, where they are to remain, towards the middle of May. In the oastern States, the tenth of May will be soon cough to sow them in the open ground, but in the southern States they may be sown any time this month.

The Solanum lycopersicum, tomato, or love apple, is much oultivated for its fruit, in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable acid flavor; and is also stewed and dressed in various ways and very much admired The seeds, may, towards the latter end of this month, be own or a warm border, pretty thick, and about the end of May will be fit to ing They wil remar be son where intended to remain for fruit- They will require such support as directed for nasturtiums, on page 341, and must be planted in rows five feet asunder, and a foot or fourteen inches distant, plant from plant, as they run greatig. Some lay various kinds of old branches in their way for them to run upon; however, the better they are supported, the more numerou will their fruit be Lois fruit may be had much earlier by sowing the seeds in th first week of this month, if not done in farch, on a slizht hot-be and forwarding them in that way; they bear transplanting well, and may be set out finally about the middle of May.

The Solanum melongena, or egg plait. There are two varieties of this plant, the white fruited and the purple, cultivated for culiary purposes; the latter kind is preferable, and when sliced and nicely fried, approaches, both in taste and flavor, nearer to that of a very nice fried oyster than perhaps any other plant This delicious vegetable may be propagated by sowing the seed ot a slight hot-bed the beginning of this month, or in March; ano towards the middle or latter part of May, they should be planted in a rich warm piece of ground, at the distance of two feet and a half asunder every way for the nurnle or two foot for the white kind and if kept clean. and a Hitle earth dunwn no to thai stems, ther about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit.

Or, the seed may be sown about the end of this month on a warm border, and Pals, add not proji fruit so abundauly in the middle or easter but these will be rathe States, as by the former method. If any were sown last month, let them be pricked out into a fresh hot-bed the middle of this, at the distance of four or five inches, to gather strength, and prepare them for planting out about the fiteenth or tientieth of May.

In the middle States here the ground is light, dry, and warm, you may in the last veek of this month Bor cucumbera, squashes, water-molons, and early musks-melons in the open ground, agreeably to the directions given next month. and they are not attacked by frost after being up, they will succeed very well; but if you have hand or bell glasses for their protection, there is no doubt of their success. It is generally obserred, that cucumbers, squashes, and melons of every kind, may be sown in the open ground as early as Indian corn; but they are certainly somewhat more tender, and cannot be sown in the middle States with great certainty of success before the eighth of

Towards the latter end of this month you may plant a first crop of kidney-beans in the open ground. Select a warm, dry, and favorably situated spot, and having dug and manured it properly, draw drills an inch deep, and two feet or thirty inches asunder; drop the beans therein two inches apart, and draw the earth equnlly over them; do not cover them more than an inch deep, for at this early time they are liable to rot if cold or wet ensue. The kinds proper to be sown now, are the early cream-colored, speckled, yellow, and bite dwarfs.

Those who are fond of endive as a salad, may now sow some of the seed, as directed in June, and blanoh it when of sufficient size in the manner prescribed in August. But in the early montaB, lettuce has almost generally superseded the use of it

So now a suffioient supply of the broad-leaved garden sorrel, and. also of the round-leaved or French sorrel; these, or either of them, may be sown on narrow beds or borders and covered lightly or raked in; when the plants are up keop them free from weeds, and in June You may transplant them either in rows along the borders, or into three or four feet wide beds, at the distance of nine inches, plant from plant, every way.

The Atriplex hortensis, or garden orache, is cultivated for oulinary pur poshe Frong use i spinage, and is by some persons preferred to The French particularly are very partial to this plant. There are three or four varieties of it, differing only in color; one is of a deep green, another of a dark purple, and a third with green leaves and purple borders.. The green-leaved variety, however, is that cul. tivated as an esculent herb, and is sown at the same time and treated in every respect like spinage.

The Atriplex hortensis, or garden oracha, is cultivated for ulinary purpose Frong used i spinage, and is by some persons preferred to The Frenoh particularly are very partial to this plant. There are three or four varieties of it, differing only in color; one is of a deep green, another of a dark purple, and a third with green leaves and purple borders.. The green-leaved variety, however, is that cul. tivated as an esculent herb, and is sown at the same time and treated in every respect like spinage.

The Carum carur, or common caraway, is a biennial plant: it produces its seed, which is highly aromatic and grateful to the stomach, he second year after sowing, and then generally dies It may now de sown on a bed, either broadcast and raked in, or in drills, and covered half an inch deep; when up, thin the plants to six inches distance, and in the June twelve months following, it will produce its seed. Some of the plants that have not seeded abundantly will continue to bear the second season. Young plants rise in abundance where the seeds fall when ripe, and these will shoot and produce seed the following summer.

The Carum caru, or common caraway, is a biennial plant: it pro. duces its seed, which is highly aromatic and grateful to the stomach, the second year after sowing, and then generally dies be sown on a bed, either broadcast and It may now raked in, or in drills, and covered half an inch deep; when up, thin the plants to six inches distance, and in the June twelve months following, it will produce its seed, Some of the plants that have not seeded abundantly will continue to bear the second season. Young plants rise in abundance where the seeds fall when ripe, and these will shoot and produce seed the following summer.

Weeds will now begin to appear plentifully from seed in every part of the garden. The utmost diligence should be used to destroy them while they are young, before they get the start of the crops, espe cially towards the middle and latter end of the month, when, it n forward season, they will be advanoing in a rapid growth. Pay particular regard, at this time, to your smail crops, as onions, carrots, parsneps, and the like; weeds grow much quicker than the do; and if they are not weeded in time, either by small hoeing or hand weeding, such will occasion much labor and trouble to clear them, and sometimes totally destroy the crops. Tate the opportunity of dry weather, and hoe the ground betreer the rowe of heans. peas. cabbages. euliflowerg, and other crops tha stand wide, to destroy the weeds A large piece of ground may soon be gone ovor with a hoe when the weeds are small; but when they are permitted to grow large, it requires double labor to destroy them.

Weeds will now begin to appear plentifully from seed in every part of the garden. The utmost diligence should be used to destroy them while they are young, before they get the start of the crops, espe tally towards the middle and latter ond of the month, when, if forward season, they will be advancing in a rapid growth Pay particular regard, at this time, to your small crops, as onions Carrots, parsneps, and the like; weeds grow much quicker than they do; and if they are not weeded in time, either by small hoeing or hand weeding, such will occasion much labor and trouble to clear them, and sometimes totally destroy the crops. Take the opportunity of dry weather, and hoe the ground betreon the rows of beans. peas. cabhoes ennifowers, and other crops tha stand wide, to destroy the weeds A large piece of ground may soon be gone over with a hoe when the weeds are small; but when they are permitted to grow large, it requires double labor to destroy them.

The importance of water in cordoning is too well undergood to require anything to be said to enforce it. The proper mode of in Groducing it will depend upon the resources at hand and the means of the ownor. The hydraulio ran is now much employed, and is found to be economical in its working; the reduced price of lead pipe Fig. 31.: has resulted in a gonoral introduction of this valuable invention long confined to the wealthy only. The accompanying gure No. 31, represeuts an oromental tot it containing a reservoir, and serving also as a prospect tower.

The importance of water in gardening is too well understood to require anything to be said to enforce it. The proper mode of in troducing it will depend upon the resources at hand and the mean, of the orDer found to be e it it he done it tony be Fig. 32. filled by two water rams; the pipes are laid below the frost. The water tower is eighteen feet square, and forty-five high, placed upon a terraco for beanty, and to gain elevation. Within is a reservoir seven feet square and thirty. four feet high from the bottom the water est manner. construoted in the strong. is conducted in 2-inch iron pipes, throo and a half feet below the sod, and lateral pipes of lend, varying in size to supply hydrants for root culture, irrigation, th cattle-yard, stable, garden, the bouso, and fountains.

A useful and simple trough is represented by cut No. 32, which it will be well to adopt in watering ground that ba a slight fall This simple trough may be six inches wide, with sluiceways every few feet, formed by pieces of the sides out out and turning on pivots in the centre, which, when open, shut off the water from further progress down the trough by falling back against the side, and allows it to escape through an opening wherever it may be wanted For strawberry beds, and, indeed, all plants that require much water, this sim ple contrivance, which may be varied in many ways, will be found truly useful