March 1857

The weather in this month, both in the middle and eastern States, is very unsettled; sometimes it proves dry and frosty, sometimes tolerably warm and comfortable, at other times cold and wet, with storms of strong winds, hail, snow and rain, which make a diligent attendance on the hot-beds absolutely necessary; otherwise, they often miscarry, and all the preceding trouble and expense are lost.

Let me here observe, that snow ought never to be suffered to remain but as short a time as possible on the glasses of hot-beds; for it not only excludes the light, but occasions a damp and chill within, very prejudicial to the young plants.

Examine the stnte of the cucumber and melon hot-beds, and see if they are of a proper degree of heat, so as to preserve the plants in a state of free growth. he ridged-out plants of good growth will show fruit plentifully, an these will swell freely and grow to a handsome size. If you find the heat declined, apply a lining of fresh horse-dung, as directed in January, page 25, to which I refer you for general instructions on this subject. Let the plants have fresh air every day, by raising the upper end of the glasses from about half an inch to one or two inches in heigut, in proportion to the heat of the bed and warmness of the weather; always more freely in sunny, calm, mild days, than when cloudy or 2 sharp external air; and when the weather changes colder, diminish the admission of air or shut down the glasses; and always shut close in proper time towards evening, about three or four o'clock, &c., according to the temperature of the weather.

Refresh them now and then with water; let this be given very modorately, and in a mild sunny day; the best time for doing this is from ten to two o'clock. Cover the glasses with mats every afternoon as soon as the sun is off them; or, if a dark day, and the weather is severe, at such period as jou may think necessary, according to the degree of heat or cold that inay be prevalent at the time; and uncover in the morning, it a sunny day, so soon as it shines on the beds, or, if otherwise, as early as may be consistent with the safety of the plants; for their being too much debarred from the light, causes them to become discolored and weakly. As the early plants raised last month will have now advanced considerably into fruitful runners, and show fruit abundantly, especially cucumbers, let the runners or vines be trained out regularly along the surface of the bed at equal distances, and peg them down neatly with small booked sticks.

At this early season it will be of much utility to impregnate the young fruit of cucumbers with the farina of male blossoms. female, separate on the samo plant, and the females produce the fruit; the males are often erroneously called false blossoms, and many persons in consequence of that notion pull them off; but they are so far from being false blossoms, that they are by nature designed to impregnate the female flowers to render them fruitful; for the anthera in the centre of the malo blossom being furnished with a one powder, bich being disporsed on the stigma in the centro of the female, the fecundation is effected, and the fruit in a day or two after will begin to swell, and which in cucumbers will generally, in about a fortnight, or within a fer days under or over, according to the state or growth of the plants, be arrived to a proper size for cutting or gathering for the table, in young green fruit six to twelve inches long or more; so that without the assistance of the male blossom, the temales having the embryo fruit at their bose wither and decay, and the intant truit turns yellow and drops off Iberefore it is of importance to preserve a sufficioncy of the malo flowers, for the purpose of impregnating the females; and in the early culture of cucumbers, &c., it is eligible to carry some of the males to the female flowers; obserring for this purpose to detach some new expanded male blossoms with the stalk to each, and holding the stalls between the fnger and thumb, and pulling off the petal or flower leat surrounding the male organ, then with the remaining anther or central part, touch the stigma in the centre of the femalc, twirling it about so as some of the farina or male powder of the antbera may adhere thereto, a little of which being sufficient to effect the impreguation.

Ibis operation is essentially necessary to be performed by hand, to early plants that are shut up in frames, before the lights or glasses can be admitted sufficiently open to give free access to a large current of air, or lying insects, such as bees, &c., all of which assist in conveying the farina of the male blossoms to the females, as is evident in plants exposed to the open air. I'be above operation of fecundating, or, as the gardeners term it, and are fully expanded, which is the most essential period of their generative effoct. The female or fruit-bearing flowers are readily distinguished at • first cruption from the stem of the plant; but the male blossom is placed immediately on the top of its footstalk without The same operation of impregnating or setting the fruit, as above,

Sow in the above, or any new made hot-beds, the seeds of cucumbers and melons, at the beginning, and also about the middle, and towards the latter end of this month, to have a supply of young plants in readiness, either to plant into new beds, or to supply the place of such plants as may fail. The sorts of cucumbers are the early Kenyon's free-bearer, Syon House, and Walker's improved. But the Darly Short Prickly and Long Green Prickly, are commonly cultivated for the early and general crop, the short prickly being the carliest, and are, therefore, often sown for the first crop in the frames; but the Long Green Prickly is the best to sow for a main crop, either for the hand-glasses, or in the natural ground; it being both a plentiful bearer in long continuance, and the fruit attains the most handsome regular growth, six or eight to ten or twelve inches in length.

Make hot-beds the beginning of this month to plant the cucumber or melon plants upon, which were sown the latter end of January, or any time in February; make the beds very substantial, fully three

and in February. There are many gardeners and others who cannot conveniently procure dung to begin to make hot-beds for cucumbers or melons at an early season. Where that is the case, it is not too late to begin April, be in full bearing the beginning of May, and will continue fruiting a long time. The melons will come to perfection in June and July.

About the eighteenth or twentieth, or any time towards the end of this month, is the time to begin to sow the cucumbers and melon: which are to be planted under hand or bell-glasses. They may be sown in any of the cucumber hot-beds now at work; Orient acoconient thoro see DOsal Lala made mole a hate for that purpose, for a one, two, or three light frame, according to the duated in plato report to see and mill be read o, and manaze the bed: ridging out by the middle or towards the end of next month; the cucumbera will be in bearing the latter end of May, and the melona in July.

Where cauliflower plants wero raised from seeds sown last month,. they should as soon in this as they have arrived to the height of three or four inches, be pricked into a new slight hot-bed, made for that purpose, at the distance of three inches every way, and managed By pricking out the plants on a little bottom beat, it will forward hem considerably, and by thus transplanting, they will become strong and Fell furnished with roots, and consequently will suceced much better when planted out than if suffered to remain in the seed The autumn sorn plants, and those which you had transplantod last month, from the January sowing, must now have plenty of air, and this in proportion as the season advances, and the weather grows warm, in order to harden them for bearing the open air, when planted out where intended for flowering, which cannot be done with safety in the middle States before the last week in this month, or rather the first in April; nor in the castern States before the second week or middle of that month, unless you have hand-glasses to cover thein, in which case they may be planted out any time that the ground is in good condition, after the middle of March.

The latter method I would recommend, provided the plants are large, the spring early, and that you have the convenience of handglasses, but not otherwise. T'ueugh at tbis early period the ground best adapted for producin good caulitlowers is not always in a proper state for cultivation, thick ought to be a principal consideration, either in the planting or sowing of nny crops whatever, and never departed from, should the season prove ever so late. Cauliflower seed may be sown the beginning of this month, as directed in January, page 29, which, if well attended to, and judidiciously managed, and the groat summer heats should not set in at an early period, will head tolerably well; but if these circumstances do not follow, a great number of them will not flower before late in autumn, and some not even then; such of these as do not flower before the setting in of the winter frosts, are to be treated as directed produce tolerable good heads, and at a very acceptable period.

You must be very particular during this month, especially when the weather gets warm, to give your cauliflower plants plenty of air, otherwise they will draw up weakly, anchold good for nothing; but at the same time, do not let them checked, by exposing them too much in cold weather, or neglecting to cover them carefully at night; expose them fully to the air every mild and warm day, but not when the wind is sharp or cutting, and raise the glasses behind in more unfavorable weather. On the judicious treatment given to these plants during this month depends, in a great measure, their future success; therefore, due and constant attention should be paid to them, agreeably to the rules already laid down.

As the beginning or early part of noxt month will be the principal period for planting out cauliflowers in the middle and eastern States, I am induced to defer the instructions for performing that part of the business till April; observing, bowever, that in every part of the Union it should be done as early in sprig as the ground gets warm and into a good state of vegetation, not before; for, when that is not the case, the plants very frequently get chilled and stunted by the coldness of the earth and air, and seldom afterwards produce good heads. ou may sow some cauliower seed on a warm border toward le latter end of the month, to produce their flowers or heads i October, &c.

During the early part of this month the cabbage plants, which are in a considerable state of forwardness, must be well inured to the open air, the better to prepare them for planting out as soon after the middle of the month as the weather will permit. Those produced from later sowings in hot-beds will, to do them justice, require the same management as directed for cauliflower plants.

As early in this month as you find the menther sufficiently favorable, which, in the middle States, is generally so about the fifteenth or twontieth, transplant cabbage plants of all kinds, particularly the early sorts, where they are to remain for heading; this, in warm situations and dry ground, may be done at an carlier period, accord- Let them be planted in good ground enriched with dung, at tro feet distance for the early York, sugar-loaf, and other early kinds; but the large late cabbage plants shoald be set a jard asunder. The above distances are to be understood of such plants as are to 'emain to grow to their full size; but such of the forward kinds as are to be cut while young, may be planted loser; eighteen inobes will be suffoient. 19.4 Plant out also a general crop of red cabbage plants, to head in August, &c., and allow them three feet every way, plant from plant.

Sow seeds of every kind of cabbage which you wish to cultivate. These may be sown in the open ground about the middle or as early in the month as the weather permits. The early as tell as the late kinds should be sown now, in order to have a regular succession, or as substitutes in default of early plants, or for a general summer crop. The early Wakefield, early York, Battersea, and sugar-loat, are best adapted for this purpose. The last kind, though not quite so early as the others, has a particular advantage over them, in nor being liable to burst so soon after having arrived at perfection, anc consequently may be kept a long time, either for use or market.

Sow also a full crop of the large flat Dutch, drum-bead, large English, Saros, and red pickling cabbages. The plants from this sowing will produce larger and better heads than if sown later. Should the season prove favorable, by which you can get these seeds sown early in the month, it will he very proper to sow some more of each kind, about the end, for succession plants. Some people never think of planting Savoys till late in spring This is a great mistake, for the early sown plants will always produce larger and better cabbage-heads than the late. In sowing the differont sorts of cabbage-seeds, never let them be forn under the shade of trees, hedges, very high fences or buildings, for in such situations the plantsare drawn up weak and long-shanked, and are more liable to be destroyed by vermin than in open ex-

As early in this month as possible sow a full crop of peas. The kinds most propor for this sowing are the early-frome, emperor, and Charleton hot-spurs. Sow also at the same time some of the Champion of England, marrowfat, dwarf, or blue imperial kinds. These, or any of the late sorts, being now sown, will regularly succeed the early crops. Sor peas from this forward once a fortnight or three weeks, to to sow another crop of the same sort for succession. All the sorts of peas, except those which are intended for the first or early crops, which may be sown on south or warm borders, should be sowed in open situations, and by no means near low or spreading At this season, and from henceforward, let the early kinds be planted in drills three feet and a half asunder; the larger growing sorts ive feet, and the largest, such as the champion, &c., six feet, giving them rods or sticks in proportion to their respective growtus, by which means you will be certain of abundant crops.

It will not be advisable to sow any of the above kinds while the ground is tough and tret, always observing to have your ground in good working condition before Jou sow these or any other crops; iderable inuibering at to same in team in in a heavy or clay soil. The depth of covering which they require is from one to tro inches, according as the ground may be either of a ligut or heavy nature, or in a dry or wet state at the time of sowing.

dvancing in growth they progress, which will greatly strengthen them and encourage their growth. As to sticking peas, always be careful to have this done when they are about four inches high; for, if they fall to one side or the other, they with dificulty can recover their erect posture; and if they are double-sticked the better-that is, place a range of sticks on the one side, all in a regular deolining manner, and another on the other side of the row declining in an opposite direction to the former, by which none can fall on either side. I cannot too much impress the necessity of rodding well, for on this in great measure depends the • abundance of your crops.

As early in this month as possible plant a full crop of Windsor beans, and also of any of the other varieties which you esteem. The Mazagan and Lisbon are the carliest; the white-blossom boan is very delicious, and boils much greener than any other kind; but the green Genoa bears the heat of our climates better than either of the others, and therefore 1s the most suitable for late crops. The longpodded bean is very good, and bears well; but the Windsor, Sandwieu, Toker, and broad Spanish Kinds, on account of their great size and sweetness, are more esteemed for blanching than any other. The dwarf-cluster bean is a great bearer, never grows above a foot or fourten inches high, and may be planted in rows either in beds or bordera, the rows to be about two feet asunder: and as this kind branches out considerably from the root, the beans must be planted in single rows, and siz inches distant from one another.

I have again to remark that it is from the early planted of these kinds that much produce may be expeoted, for when overtaken by the summer heat, whilst in blossom, these drop off prematurely; consequently the crops are poor and scanty. continue planting these kinds once every ten days till the end ot the month or beginning of next; and as the early crops advance, draw some earth up to their stems as directed for peas. When beans are desired at as early a period as possible, you may force some of the early Mazagan kind, in any of your forcing depart nents, observing, when the plants are in full blossom, to nip off their tops, which will cause their fruit to set and ripen sooner than if left to take their natural course.

Or you may, about the beginning of the month, plant a quantity of them close together in a hot-bed, to be defended with a frame and glasses, or with mats, do., and when thus forwarded for two or three reeks, plant them into the open ground; observing to give them plenty of air whilst in the hot-bed, and when they have one or two inches growth therein, to plant them into some warm border, 1l row two feet and a half or a yard asunder For further particulars, and the method of planting all the kinds, see February.

For covering half-bardy plants, or soreening from dry winds, various Incans are omplosed. In France a basket is constructed, of two semi-oylinders, constructed in the mode of straw Fig. 20. hives. To these are fixed solid feet of wood to drive into the ground. If it is necessary to shelter one plant from cast or northeast winds, one cylinder is sufficient; but if it is a plant which you are forced to protect, is delicate, and requires a more complete protection, you inclose it between the two semi-cylinders, fixed one to the other by means of hooks represented in the drawing. A lid of the same construction, furnished at its edgo with a circle of woodwork, is fitted, when necessary, on the cylinder, and thus, perhaps, offere a more effectual shelter agninst the severity of cold winds and exceasive heat than any other.

These sorts of shades are light to move, very solid, and very warm; for, letting but little of the extorior air penetrate, they presorve at night the heat which accumulates in the interior. They would also guard plants well from the sun, and thus offer a meaus of checking the natural perspiration of green parts. suitablo for the protection of young plants, like the magnolia grandi iora, in this latitude, where the frozen sap is attacked by the sun. and the leaves in young specimens annually killed. For protocting the stems of grafted roses from the summer sun, they might be made

For covering half-bardy plants, or screening from dry winds, various mcans are omplosed. In France a basket is constructed, of two semi-oylinders, constructed in the mode of straw Fig. 20. bives. To these are fixed solid feet of wood to drive into the ground. If it is necessary to shelter one plant from east or northeast winds, one cylinder is sufficient; but if it is a plant which you are forced to protect, is delicate, and requires a more completo protection, you inclose it between the tivo semi-cylinders, fixed one to the other by means of hooks represented in the drawing. A lid of the same construction, furnished at its edgo with a circle of wood. work, is fitted, when necessary, on the cylinder, and thus, perhaps, offere a more effectual shelter against the severity of cold winds and excessive heat than any other.

These sorts of shades are light to move, very solid, and very warm; for, letting but little of the extorior air penetrate, they preserve at night the heat which accumulates in the interior. They would also guard plants well from the sun, and thus offer o means of checking the natural perspiration of green Probably nothing could be invented suitable for the protection of young plants, like the magnolia grandihora, in this latitude, where the frozen sap is attacked by the sun, and the leaves in young specimens annually killed. For protocting the stems of grafted roses from the summer sun, they might be made of basket willows.

As early in this month as possible, preparo a warm south border, and sow thereon, very thick, some of the early Silosis and whito Dutch lettucos; in order to have it fit for cutting, with other small Balading, at an early period, and to succeed such as you have forwarded in frames; let the ground be dry and light, and the seed either raked in or covered very slightly. Torards the middle of the month, if the weather be mild and sottled, you may sow in borders, beds, or any open compartments of ground, different sorts of lottuce seed, such as the white, green, spotted, and Egyptian cos, grand admiral, white Silosia, Indian ten. nis-ball, New healand, Mogul, hite and brown Dutch, &c., these are all most excellent sorts for this sowing, where variety of superior kinds are wanted.* oropa, so as to hate a regill be nestant apply dier for mana l'he different sorts should goncrally be sown separate, and in dig ging the ground, lot the earth be well palverized.

Sow the seed o the surface, and rake them in lightly, taking care not to draw the earth in heaps. the crops of carrots, paraneps, Or som of the parade par colas, de 3 be for trainiamong, and others to remain for full growth. In sowing lettuce it is of much importance to have good sorts, and such as will not run to seed before they attain full growth; these are not commonly to be met with, and are worth procuring. As soon in this month as the weather gets mild and tolerably warm, transplant some of the lettuce plants from the beds or borders, where they have stood all winter, provided they stand too close. In doing this, observe to draw the plants out regularly, and let the strongest remain for heading at about ten inches distance; then Loosen the surface of the earth between them, and clear away all de cayed leaves and litter; after which, add a little fresh earth, which will give the plants new vigor, and considerably enlarge their growth.

Previously to planting out into the open borders any plants raised in hot-beds from the early spring sowingg, you must be very particular to inure them to the open air, so that when transplanted, ther may not receive a great check by too sudden a transition. • It will be of considerable service to these plants, when transplanted into the borders at this season, to cover them at night with mats or other light covorings, which are to be taken off early in the mornjoB hould it bappen that you have no lettuce plants in a stato of forwardness for early Salading, some may be now sown in a hot-bed, to forward for that purpose.

As early in this month as possiblo, preparo a warm south border, and Bow thercon, very thick, some of the early Silesia and whito Dutch lettucos; in order to have it fit for cutting, with other small salading, at an early period, and to succeed such as you have forwarded in frames; let the ground be dry and light, and the seed eithor raked in or covered very slightly. Towards the middle of the month, if the weather be mild and sotterrorise, t223 groand, different forts of lett. p.. spotted, and Egyptian cos poon ot! b nis-ball, Net Zealand, Mogal, rhite. d1o.. all most excolleat sorts for this enter. kinds are wanted.* rery tro weeks it will Be genoney be crops, so as to have a regular and pete. in or tamalit ase. 1 be diferent sorts should ging the ground, ict the cart elemly le eme the sarface, sad rake them in lightly, toking earth in hears.

In sowing entice it is of much importance to tom povi such 15 mill Santo seed before they attain full goor; not commeal? to be met with, and are worth procuring As soon in this month as the weather gets mild and warm, transplan: someof the lettuce plants from the bode or where they bare scod all winter, provided they stand too cin doing this, cosorre to draw the plants out regularly, and strongest remain for heading at about ten inches distance; loosen the suriace of the earth between them, and clear away all cased leaves and litter; after which, add a little fresh earth, wire will give the plants new rigor, and considorably enlarge their growth Previously to planting out into the open borders any plants rained in hot-beds from the early spring sowings, you must be very particular to inure them to the open air, so that when transplanted, they may not receive a great check by too sudden a transition. • It will be of considerable service to these plants, when transplanted into the borders at this season, to cover them at night with mats or other light coverings, which are to be taken off early in the mornin should it happen that you have no lettuce plants in a atato of forwardness for early Salading, some may be now sown in a hot-bed, to forward for that purpose.

Sow more seed to raise a supply of radishes to succeed those sown last month. There should be some both of the salmon, olive shaped, and short top kinds, sown at three different times this month; that is, at the beginning, middle, and latter end, by which means there will be a due succession of young radishes for the table. Let this seed be the winter. * Tito Tease i sun of that bring see all arise are bing. tle, and sweet flavored. • tops, which will cause their fruit to set and ripen sooner than if left to tak ole masterol cobe legioning of the montl, plant a quantity e a partician, and no milo plaing a al the kinds

Sow more seed to raise a supply of radishes to succood those sown last month. There should be some both of the salmon, olivo almped, and short top kinds, sown at three different times this month; that in, at the beginning, middle, and latter end, by which means there will be a due succession of young radishes for the tablo. Let thia hood be purposes, excoptiny the winter. * Inter TEst Bis ding son of tou bring a coral, me, bol tle, and sweet flavored. sown now in an open compartment, obsorving the same mothod as in February, page 137. Thin the early crops of radishes where the plants stand too close; pull up the worst and leave the others about two inches apart; clear them from weods of all kinds, and as they advance in growth thin them by degrees by drawing them for the table.

In dry open weather, let the early crops in frames, &c., be mode rately watered at intervals, to forward them in a free swelling state, as tell as to render them mild and crisp for eating. A thin sprinkling of radish seed may be sown among other gene. ral crops at this season, which will grow freely, and being dotaobed, will form fine large crisp roots.

Now sow some turnip-rootod radish; there are two sorts, the white and the red, but the former is preferable to sow for the general sup ply; it grows like a young Datoh turnip, is very mild, agrecablo to eat, and of early perfection. Let the seed of both sorts be sown soparatoly in an open space of light ground, and rake them in evenly. When the plants have the first central rough leaves half an inch broad, thin them to about two inches apart.

Sor spinage every fortnight or three wacks to have a regular supply; for the plants of one sowing, in spring and summer, will not continue fit for use longer than that time before they run to seed. Let the seed be of the round-leaved or smooth-seeded kind; that being the most proper sort to sow at this season, its loaves being considorably thicker and larger than the prickly-soeded spinage. This seed should be sown thinly either in beds or borders, and generally broadcast, in which mothod you may sow therowith a little radish-seed; when the seed is sown in light dry ground, tread it over lightly, and then rake it in regalarly, or you may sow it in drills a foot asunder, and about half an inch deep.

Let it be observed, that spinage should not, at this season, be sown hero the ground is much shaded with trees or bushes; for in such situations, the plants would be drawn up to seed before they arrive to half their growth. Hoe or hand-weed the early crops of spinage, thinning the plants at the samo time, but particularly those sown broadcast, to three, four, or five inches distance. The crop of winter spinage, which was sown last autumn, will, towards the end of the month, be advanoing in good perfection for use, and should be kept clear from weeds, and the earth between the plants stirred with a hoo; and in gathering the plants for use, if they stand close, should thin them out clean by the roots; but if they already stand at wide distances, only orop the largo outer leaves as wanted, till they begin to run, then cut them clean up to the bottom.

Any time after the middle of this month that the ground is in good condition, you may sow carrots and paranops for a fall crop, particularly the latter; and also, a sufficient early crop of the former. A spot of light deep loam, inclining a little to sand, and in an open situation, should be chosen for these crops; for their roots will thrive best and grow largest in such. The ground should be trenched one good spade deep at least, observing in the digging to take but thin spits, and to break all the lumps fine, that the roots may have full liberty to run down long and straigut; for if the earth is not well divided and separated, the roots are apt to grow both short and forked.

Then draw drills one inch deep and fifteen inches apart, sow the seed evenly, cover carefully with the feet, after which, rake the surface lightly, and the work is finished. Previous to sowing carrot-seed, you should rub it well between your hands, mixed with some dry sand, to cause it to separate freely. When the plants are about three inches high, thin the parsneps to sis, and tue carrots to four inches, plant from plant, in the rows. Some people sow the seeds broadcast in beds, tread them in, and, then rako the ground; but this method should never be practised where the soil is stiff, inclinable to wet, or apt to bind. sow with these crops a few radish and lettuce seeds; of the latter any of the cos kinds are most suitable for this purposc, they not being subject to spread like the heading sorts.

Small salading, such as cresses, mustard, radish, rape, and turnip, dc., should, when a constant supply is wanted, be sow once a week or fortnight, in a warm border, observing to draw some flat ballow drills three inches asunder; sow the seeds therein, each sort separate, and cover them lightly with fine earth. For the particular method of sowing and treating these seeds, sco the work of last month, page 132. If these young herbs, or any other of your early advancing. crops, such as peas, beans, do., are attacked with a hoar frost appearing hem in the morning, and a sunny day is likely to follow, let then le watered before the sun shines on them with spring or pump water o wash and melt it off, which will prevent their turning black an spoiling.

cad, for a succession crop. The seed should be sown in a bed or

border of mellow rich earth, sowing it on the surface moderately thick, and cover it in lightly with fine mould not more than a quarter of an inch; or you may rake it in with a light and even hand. Water the bed frequently in dry weather. Let it be observed that there are two sorts of celery; one known by the name of Italian or upright celery; the other called celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery. The first is that which is commonly cultivated for the general crops, and of which there are several varieties, viz., common upright celery with hollow stalks, solid-stalked celery: red-stalked solid celery, &c.,* either of which being raised from seed Sown as above, is afterwards planted in trenches for blanching their

Sow broccoli for early crops, &c., to come in for use in October, November, and December, &c. Choose seed of the early purple, and some of the cauliflower broccoli; sow a little of each kind about the middle or latter end of the month in an open bed of rich earth, and rake them in. When the plants come up, manage them as directed in May, June, and July.:

Towards the end of this month you may sow a first crop of borecole for autumn service. There are two principal sorts, the green and the brown, both very hardy plants, with tall stems, and full beads of thick imbriate curled leaves, not cabbaging, and are desirable open greens for winter, &c. Let this seed be sown in an open exposure, distant from trees and close fences, as in such situations they are apt to draw up too fast, with long weak stalks. Sow it broadcast, and rake it in erenly. For other particulars, see the succeeding months. Borecole is extremely valuable for winter and spring greens, where the wintor frost is not too powerful for it, particularly in all the southern States. It is the most hardy of the cabbage tribe, and in mild winters will stand tolerably well in the middle States. In the eastern States, it will require to be taken up before the winter frosts set in with much severity, planted in trenches up to the leaves, and covered cataly sid, and o other tic ions, if i The heads taken up and planted out, will produce an abundance of most delicioua sprouts. * Hollow stalked celery is not north cultivating. Seymour's White Solid is one of the very best.

This work should be begun about the latter end of the month. For the purpose of digging or forking these beds, you should be provided with a proper fork, having three short tines, six to eight or mine inches long, perfectly flat, about an inch broad, and the ends of them rounded and blunt. However, in want of such, it may be performed with a small short-pronged common dung-fork. In forking the beds, be careful to loosen every part to a moderate depth, but taking great care not to go too deep to wound the crowns of the roots. The above work of forking these bede is most necessary to be done every spring to improve and loosen the ground and to give free liberty for the buds to shoot up, also to give easy accees to the sun, air, and showers of rain. serving, it you do not rake them immediately after they are forked, the buds will begin to advance.

Before raking the above beds you may scatter thereon a few radish and lettuce seeds to pull up while young. As to the method of gathering or cutting asparagus when advanced to a proper growth for the table, it is generally most eligible to be furnished with an asparngus knife, having a straight, narrow, taporing blade, about six or eight inches long, and about an inch broad at the haft, narrowing to about half an inch at the point, which should be rounded off from the back, observing, when the shoots are from about to to three or four inches high, they should be then cut, alipping the knife down perpendicularly, close to each shoot, and cut it ott slanting y about three or four inches within the ground, taking care not to wound any young buds coming up from the same root, for there are always several shoots advancing therefrom in different • stages of growth.*

New plantations of asparagus may now be made, this being tae proper season to remove these plants. It may be done any time in this month, when the weather is mild. n making plantations of these plants, one great article to be conidered is to make choice of a proper soil: choose the best the garden affords. It must not be wet nor too strong or stubborn, but such as s moderately light and pliable, so as it will readily fall to pieces ir ligging or raking, &c., and in a situation that enjoys the full sun The ground where you intend to make now asparagus beds should have a large supply of rotten or other good dung laid thereon seve ral inches thick, and then regularly trenched to spades deep, and * If the young shoots be allowed to grow six inches high and are cut off lovel with the ground, the whole is tonder; all below the soil is tongh and stringy. the dung buried equally in each trench, twelve or fifteen inches below the surface.

When this trenching is done, lay on two or three inches or ver short well rotted manuro all over the surface, and dig the grounc over again eight or ten inches deep, mixing this top-dressing and incorporating it well with the earth. The ground being thus prepared and laid level, divide it into bed: four feet and a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between each bed. At each corner of every bed let a firm stake be driven into the ground, to serve as a mark for the alleys. Four rows of asparagus are to be planted in each bed, and ten or twelve inches distanco to be allowed between plant and plant in the row, and let the outside rows of each bed be eight inches from the edfrext, let it be observed that the plants for this plantation must not be more than two years old; but most good gardeners prefer those that are only one, which are what I would recommend and choosc to plant, as from experience I have found they generally take root much freer and succeed every way better than the former. The following is the method of planting them: Strain your line along the bed eight inches from the edge, then with a spade cut out a small trench or drill close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side next the line nearly upright; and when one trench is opened plant that before you open another, placing the plants upright ton or twelve inches distant in the row.

In planting these plants, observe that they must not be placed flat in the bottom of the trench, but nearly upright against the back of the trench or drill, and so that the crown of the plants may alsc stand upright, and two or three inches below the surface of the ground; let them be all placed an equal depth, sproading their roots Bomewhat regular, against the back of the trench, and at the same time drawing a little earth up against them with the hand as you other drill or trench, as before directed; plant it in the same manner, and cover in the plants as above, and so on till the whole is planted, then let the surface of the beds be raked smooth, and cleared from stones.

When the plants come up, keep them always free from weeds; but In the mean time, be cautions not to sow any early crops whatever among your young plantations, as is very injudiciously practised by many, for these would smother them in their growth, and greatly re tard their progress. Lict it be next observed that it will be three years from the time ground, and a remarkably prosperous growth in the plants in the production of strong shoots, a few of the largest may be cut the second spring aiter planting, but I would advise not to cut many before the third year. A plantation of asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed every year, as directed in the spring and autumn months, will contiute to produce good buds for ten. or twelve sears or more.

In making new plantations, 1 have sometimes, instend of putting in young plants as above directed, sown the seed at once in beds where the plants are to remain; and, as by that practice the plants are not disturbed by a removal, they consequently cannot fail of producing a regular crop. The beds being four feet and a half wide, and prepared as before directed for the plants, mark out four lines lengthways the beds; then along these line, at the distance of every nine or ten inches, dot in a few seeds, covering them about an inch deep. When the plants have boen come up some time, they must be thinned, leaving only one of the strongest in each place, and carefully clear them from A plantation of asparagus tas raised will produce buds it to out the third spring after sowing, but will be very large and fino the fourth year.

For forcing asparagus, see February, page 128.

This sced may be sown about the middle, or towards the latter end of the month, on four feet wide beds of rich earth. Sow it tolerably thin on the surface, clap it in with the back of a spade, cover it a little better than half an inch deep with earth out of the alleys, and then rake the beds smooth. Or it may be sown thinly in drills, six inches asunder, and covered he same depth as above; give the beds, both before and after the plants are up, occasional waterings to strengthen them and forward their growth; and they must be kept very free from weeds, by a caroful hand-weeding ut different times during the summer. When a quantity of asparagus for forcing is annually required, you must act as directed in February, pago 128.

You may now sow some of the different sorts of beet; the red for its large root, and the green and white sorts for their leaves in soups, for this purpose make choice of a piece of rich deep ground; lay it out into four feet wide beds, push the loose earth into the alleys then sow the seed tolerably thin and cover it with the earth out of these alleys to about three-quarters of an inch deep. Or let drills be drawn with a hoe, near an inch deep, and a foot or a little more asunder; drop the seeds thinly therein and cover them over the samo depth as above. Or you may sow the seed on a piece of ground, rougu after being dug, and rake it well in.

Likewiso you may now sow the Mangol Wurtzel, root of scarcity, or greut German beet, for its large leaves to boil as spinage, its thick fesuy leaf-stalks to dress as asparagus, and its roots for boiling before they become of a very large size. The leaves and roots are excellent ance of foliage, the outside learn for this no, core stripped for this purpose, may be stripped off every eight days during the season, but if large and well doveloped roots are wanted for winter fodder, the leaves are better to be left on.

In order to have onions in good perfection the first year from seed, bich can certainly be effected in the middle, but more partic ularly in the eastern States, you must be careful to fix upon a suit. able soil, which is a strong, light, rich loam; always avoiding that which is subject to become parched or bound up by heat and drougat; become violently hot in summer, for this is extremely or that, in consequence of too large a proportion of sand, i urious to those plants by causing them to come to an untimely maturity, manifosted by the extraordinary perfection that onions arrive to in the moderate climates of Europe, where they have not to encounter a violent summer beat.

If this ground had been strongly manured in Norember, and then thrown up into high sloping ridges, it would be much improved and meliorated by the frost, &c., and could now be casily and expeditiously levelled for sowing. When this is not the case you may now give such ground a good coat of well-rotted cow dung, or other good rotten manuré, and dig it full spade deep, incorporating the dung therewith and pulvorizin the earth as you proceed in the digging; this should not be attempted till the ground it sufficiently dry to pulverize well and fall to pieces under the rake; but the carlier you can get it in this state, and te seed sown, the larger and better onions will you have.

There are various methods of sowing the seod; but first I will giro you the one practised by the most judicious and careful gardeners. As you proceed in digging the ground rake it well after you; that being done lay it out into three and a half, or four fect wide beds, with alleys between of about a foot wide; then with the back of a rake push off the light loose earth from the top of each bed into the alleys, one half to the one side, the other to the opposite; this done, and being provided with good seed, sow it thereon at the rate of ono pound for every sixteen rods, and with a shovel cast the earth out of the alleys over the beds, covering the seeds evenly about balt an inon deep; then rake the beds lightly, drawing off all the lumps into the alleys.

When the plants are up let them be kept very clean and free from eods of any kind by a good careful hand-weoding, which is to be repeated, from time to time, as they require it; and where they grow too close thin them to about tro inches, plant from plant, all over the beds; by these means you will have excellent onions for the table the first year. Others dig the ground, levelling the surface evenly after them a bey proceed in digging without raking it, and lay it out in beds a. before; then sow the seed thereon and rake it in; and if the earth is ligut and dry they frequently tread it in with the feet before raking. Or the beds may be prepared, as in the first instance, and the seeds sown very thinly in drills a foot apart, either of which methods will do very well. The last is, however, the best, as the push hoe can be used in extirpating the weeds, and loosening the surface.

But when they are raised upon an extensive scale the ground may be cultivated them kopt clean by hoeing; the remainder must be carefully hand. April, which see. So mista, to rodore small end on they wild ger bly grin to too large a size for that purpose. Of the soveral varicties of onion the Strasburg is the best for a general crop; it isa handsomo bulb, generally assuming & roundish oval shape, is of firm growth, and keeps well for winter service. The white Spanish and silver skinned onions are of a milder taste, but all the varieties generally turn out very proftable crops; the latter kinds rarely keep so well after January as the Strasburg.

The Portugal and Madeira onions are extremely fine; but they rarely attain with us as large a size as in these countries. The red Spanish onion is highly esteemed for pickling on account of its deep blood-red color, and much cultivated for that purpose: it may also be used for any other purpose as well as the former

Leek seed may be sown, and treated in every respect for the present as directed for onion seed.

By seed onions is meant the small bulbs produced from seed sown last season, wich should be planted out as early in spring as it is possible to get the ground in a good state for tillage; the southern States in particular have to depend on such for a general crop, as the summer heat is too powerful in these, and indeed in the middle States, except the ground is peculiarly suitable for the bulks arriving at a sufficient size the first year from seed. Having prepared an open piece of strong ground, well dug and enriched with manure, you may proceed to plant these bulbs in rows, either by line and dibble, or by hoe; planting them not more than hall an inch over the crowns: let the drills or rows be six inches asunder, and the onions three inches one from the other in the rows.

But for expedition sake, especially when there are large quantities to be planted, prepare an instrument, just in form of a common tapering to a blunt point: this being in readiness, proceed to mark out your ground into two feet wide beds, leaving a twelve inch alley between each; then pull this rake along each bed from one end to the other, pressing it down as you proceed, by which it will make four regular drills in each, for the reception of the small onions, which you are to plant by band in these drills, at the distance above mentioned, and just so deep as that you can cover the crowns, by drawing a little earth over them with the hand as you proceed.

By the same method you may plant these onions in beds of any dimensions you plense, either lengthwise or across the beds.. The Allium canadensc, or tree onion, merits culture both as a curiosity in produoing the onions at the top of the stalk, as well as for their value in domestio use, porticularl for nickling in which they are excellent, and superior in flavor to the common kinds; they may also be used for any other purposes that onions are. It is perennial, and propagated by planting the bulbs in spring or nutuma, either the root-bulbs, or those produced on the top of the stnlks; the lattor if planted in spring as directed for the other kinds will produce very fine, handsome sized onions of excellent flavor.

The root-bulbs increase greatly by offsets, and should be taken up once in every two or three years, when the stems decay in autumn, and replanted again to produce a supply of top-bulbs.

Prepare some beds of good ground, four feet wide, in which to plant garlic, rocambole, and shallots; of inches distance in each row, and two or three inches deep. They may be planted cithor with a dibble or in drills drawn with a hoe.

Cives, a small species of onion, growing in large tufts, are usoful in a family in the spring, &c., as a substitute for young onions, both in salads and culinary purposes; they are propagated by slipping the roots, and this is a proper time to plant them; the method is to part or take off some slips from the old roots several small offsets together, and plant them in beds or borders about six to eight, or nine inches distance. In slipping or parting the above roots, observe to preserve eight, ten, or more of the small bulbs together in a cluster, and in that manner to plant them. They are to be planted with a dibble or trowel, making holes for • them at the distance above mentioned, putting one cluster of roots, ae abovo, in each hole, and closing the earth well about them. They will soon take root, and incrcase very fast into large bunches, of many years' duration. Мавси]

Sow turnips for a first early crop, about the middle, or towards the latter end of this month, in an open situation, and where the ground is light. The proper sort to sow now is principally the early Dutch and six veeks turnip, they being the bost sort to sow at this season in gar dens, but especially for the first and second crops; excepting in ver cool and moist localities, turnips do not succeed during the summer months.

The latter end of this month you may sow scorzonera and salsafy; these plants are in some families much estcemed for their roots, which are the only parts that are eaten, except the salsafy, as explained below. The roots run pretty deep in the ground, in the manner of carrots and parsneps, and are boiled or stewed, and eaten either alone or with flesh-meat, like young carrots, &c. But the salsafy is estimable both for its roots as above, and for the young shoots rising in the spring from the year old plants, being gathered while green and tender, are good to boil and cat in the manner of asparagus. Dig one or more beds for each of the above, in an open situation.

Sow the seed either in shallow drills, six inches distant, and earthed over half an inch, or sow on the surface, covered from the alleys, and the beds then raked; they are all to remain where sown, and the plants thinned in May to from four to six inches distant.

Sow the seeds of Hamburg, or large rooted parsley; this is cultivated for its large parsnep-like root: let the seeds be sown in an open situation, either in shallow drills, or on the surface, and raked in evenly; when the plants are two or three inches in growth, they must be thinned to six inches distant, that the roots may have room

Skirret seed may be sown tolerably thin, on beds of good earth aid yoked in, or they may be propagated by parting their rooters of planting them at six or eight inches distant. these roots are considered very delicious.

• or if large supplies are wanted for market, it may be sown in con. tinued rows nine inches asunder, or upon the general surface, trod

The Crambe maritima, or Sea Kale, being yet very little known in the United States, though a most excellent garden vegetable, and highly deserving of cultivation, it may be of importance to the community to give some account of this plant, and the most approved methods of cultivating it. This plant is found growing spontaneously, though locally, on the sea shore of the southern parts of England, as well as in similar places in many other parts of Europe. It is of the same natural class as the cabbage, but differs from it and most of the Tetradynamus plauts of LINN/tUS, in having a round seed vessel, containing one seed only; its root is perennial, running to a great depth, growing to great thickness, and branching out widely, but not creeping: its full grown leaves are large, equalling in size, when the plant grows luxuriantly, those of the largest cabbage, of a glaucous or sea-green bue, and wared at the edges, thick and succulent in their wild state, dying away and disappearing entirely at the approach of winter. Seedling plants when raised in spring, produce the first year radical leaves only; the second spring most of them throw up a flowering stem, a foot or more in height, which, expanding into numerous branches, forms a magoificent head of white or creamcolored free, are flored y bu dare of these, if the season.

As an article of food, the Crambe maritima appears to be better known in England than in any other part of Europe; it is in that country only that its value is rightly appreciated and its culture carefully attended to. On many parts of the sea const of England, especially of Devonshire, Dorsetsbire, and Sussex, the inhabitants from time immemorial have been in the practice of procuring it for their tables, preferring it to all other greens. They seek for the plant in the spring where it grows spontaneously; and as soon as it appears above ground, they remove the pebbles or sand with which it is usually corered to the " This vegetable ought to be cooked in a pan, the inside of which is lined with block tin or porcelain; if exposed to an iron surface, it will get black and be of bitter flavor. depth of several inches, and cut of the young and tender leaves and stalks, as yet unexpanded and in a blanched state, close to the crown of the root. It is then in its greatest perfection.

When the leaves are fully grown they become hard and bitter, and the plant is not The more curious, desirous of having it at hand and in their immediate possession, have now, in many parts of the maritime counties of England, introduced it into their gardens; and in Devonshire particularly there is scarcely a good garden to be found without a plantation of it for the use of the table. It is also cultivated for sale in various parts of England, particularly Bath, Chichester, &c. It is to be observed that the sea kale is delicate eating only when young, and that it is highly improved by being blanched. cultivation of this plant it becomes necessary to blanch it before it is fit for the table.

To effect this it must be covered in some way or other before the flowering stem, which constitutes the cbief eatable part, and its attendant leaves show the least sign of emerging from the crown of the root. Cultivators have differed widely respecting the mode of treating this plant; many, conceiving that stones or gravel and sea sand are essential to its growth, have gone to the expense of providing it with such, not aware that it will grow much nore luxuriantly on a rich sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth without reaching the water, in bich, if they are immersed, they are apt to rot. The plant will succeed almost in any soil, provided it be dry.

Its luxuriance will depend chiefly on the manure with which the soil is enriched, but, of all others, a deep, rich, sandy loam is its furorite soil. The most usual mode of raising the sca kale is from seed. It may also be raised from cuttings of the root, and that with the greatest certainty; but seedlings make the finest plants. Some find a difficulty in making the seeds vegetate; this may be attributed to their being old, buried too deep in the earth, or sown too late in the spring. The most proper time for sowing the seed is in October, or as early in the spring as the ground can be got in a fit condition to receive them, and an inch is the proper depth to cover them. rarely vegetate in less than six weeks after being sown, even in the most favorable season; and some will remain in the ground for weive months before they vegetate. Should the season prove dry, it will be neccesary to water the ground where the seeds are sown, and the plants after they appear, frequently.

It is the best practice to raise young plants immediately from seed on the bed here they are intended to remain; by this means the plants receive no check in their growth. When you have formed jour bed, which should be raised somewhat above the level of the ground, being proviously trenched very deep and enriched with the vest rotten manure, make each bed wide enough to hold two rows of plants, the space between each plant in the row fourteen inches, and between each row a foot and a half. Sow about six or eight seeds as before directed, on each spot where your plant is intended to remain. This number is directed in order to guard against acidents, • as every seed may not vegotate, or at least not the first soason, which would be a losing year; besides, some of those that do may be destroyed by worms or insects. Should all of them succeed they are easily reduced to tree plants. This reduction, however, need not be made too hastily. During summer your bed of course must be kept perfectly clean from weeds.

If, for the sake of a more certain crop, you are disposed to mako your plantation of the cuttings of the roots, you may take such as are about half an inch or a little more in diameter, and cut them into pieces of about two inches in length, burie sea kind or ed an at tide same braces as on rout bad, sown the seeds. The middle or latter end of this month will be a proper season in the middle States for doing this; earlier in the southern States, and somewhat later in the eastern. Or if, for the sake of forwarding your plantation and gaining time, you make use of plants instead of seeds or cuttings, presuming that it 19 possible for you to procure them, they should be those of a year old, and taken up with due care out of the seed-bed.

Trim off the extreme part of the root, and let each plant be planted in a perpendicular manner so deep as that its crown will be one inch under the surtace. The period before mentioned for plantiog cuttings will be the proper time for transplanting these. If their flowering-stalka be cut for food the same season, it will weaken the plants considerably, and hence, even in point of time, there is little gained by using such; for most of the seedling plants in your bed, if tacy have been properly managed, as well as your plants from cuttings, will flower, and of course be fit to cut the second year. In November cover your beds with a thick coat of rotten dung or leaves; this, at the same time that it protects your plants from frost, will bring them more forward, and add to their luxuriance; about the middle of Maroh, in the middle States, it will be necessary to cover your plants for blanching; the most ready mode of doing which, 1s to draw the earth up with a hoo over the crown of the root, 8o that ach plant shall be covered to the depth of ten or twelve inches some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand, some common sand auc pebbles, and others with large garden pots inverted, and placed immediately over the plants, stopping up the holes at the bottoms; this last is the neatest and cleanest mode.

The finest or at least the largest sea kale, is that which is produced from seedling plants the first year of their flowering, as the great produce of the plant then centres in one flowering stem; afterwards the crown of the root ramifying into many heads, a greater number of stalks are produced, which are more slender but not less When your plants have been corered in either method, three, four, or five wecks, according to the early or late period of covering, examine them, and if you find that the stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin cutting; should you wait till all the shoots are of a considerable length, your crop will come in too much at oncc, for in this plant there is not that succession of growth which there i in asparagus; you may continue cutting till you seo the head of flowers begin to form, and if at this time you uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to that stato in which the broccoli is usually cut and use it as such, you will find it an excellent substitute; and this Treatly enhances the value of the plant, as broccoli does not stanc our winter frost, and can only be had when carefally protected as directed in November, but this plant is sufficiently bardy to bear öur sererest frost without much injury.

You are not to weaken the roots too much by over-cutting, for in that case you would injure their neat year's bearing; they are to be indulged as you do asparagus with several uncut boots to grow up during summer, to carry on a proper vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Such as are partial to this plant may force it in any of the winter or early spring months, nothing more being necessary than to place over each plant a large garden pot, as in one of the modes of blanching already recommended, and cover the pots with a sufficient quantity of hot borse-dung; the beat of the dung brings forward the plant, whilo the pot keeps it from coming in contact therewith; and as the growth of the plant is by this ineans greatly accelerated, it is of course rendered more tender as well as sweeter.

These plants may also be forced in frames as directed in January and February for asparagus, observing to take up such plants for this purpose as are sure to flower; trimming their side roots and shortening their long tap-roots to the length of nine or tea inches, or twelve in very large plants, and placing them in a frame on a hot-bed, and in a suitable depth of earth, at the distance of four to six inches asunder; as the plants used thus, will be rendered of littlo or no value; where this practice is used, it will be necessary to have a regular succession of plants for the purpose. In cutting the plants for the table, care must be taken not to in. jure the crowns of the roots by cutting the boots too close to them.

The sooner this delicious esculent is dressed, after it is cut, the Twenty minutes boiling, in general, is sufficient to malse it tender: this process is the more to be attended to, as the goodness of the article greatly depends on it; that which 18 young, recently cut or forced, will be done in less time; when properly boiled it is to be serred up in the manner of asparagus; it dresses well by stewing, and makes an excellent pickle. 08t people who bare tried i related, in point of flavor. When the crop is sufficiently cut, level the earth all over the beds, Keep them free from large weeds during the remainder of the season,

As soon in this month as the very severe frosts are over, any long light litter with which your artichokes are covered must be raked of into the trenches; and when you perceive the young shoots beginning to appear above ground, or rather one or two inches up, not beforo, proceed to levelling down the beds into the alleys or trenches, rounding them in a neat manner, then dig and loosen all the ground around the plants; at the same time examine the number of shoots arising on each stool or root, selecting three of the strongest and healthicst looking on every stool to remain; all above that number are to be slipped off close to the root with your hand, except you want such to make new plantations with; in which case, anyextra number for that purpose are to remain on the mother plants until they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots or junction with the old plants, when they are to be slipped off and planted as hereafter directed, leaving only three of the best shoots on each crown as before, closing the cartl in again about the crowns of the roots, and drawing it a little up to the remaining suckers.

Observe that in every part of the Union this dressing is to be given when the plants are in the above described state, whether that happens in February, Narch, or April, occasioned by the difference of climate, or the earliness or lateness of the spring.

In making new plantations of artichokes, selcet for that purpose a piece of deep, rich, sandy loam, that is not subject to retain too much ret in winter, nor to be parched up with drought in summer, having a gentlo slope sufficient to carry off noy moisture that might lodge in the trenches between the rows; for that is much more destructive to their roots in winter than the most severe frost; when both these enemies attack the plants with their combined powers, they seldom tail to accomplish the work of destruction; but from the frosts there is not much to be apprehended if the plants lie dry. Having fixed upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incorporating the manure well therewith, and pulverzing the ground effectually in the digging; then proceed to take of the slips mentioned before in the dressing of artichokes, slipping them off the mother stools with all the roots or fibres which they may have thrown out, rejecting such as appear unhealthy, and closing the earth up after you to the remaining shoots. provided, pull off any loose banging leaves, and trim the fibres; then plant them with a dibble, about four or five inches deep, in rows fire feet asunder, and two feet plant from plant in the row, leaving part of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants fre from any earth over them, and give each plant a little water to settle the earth about its roots.

Or, if you have seedling year old plants in a seed bed, you may take them up, and after abortening their tap-roots a little and dressing their leaves, plant them as above. Such young plantations, if kept clear from reeds, and now and then watered in dry weather, will yield good artichokes the following autumn, but wil produce larger fruit, and more abundantly next You may sow & small crop of lettuce, radish, or spinage, ac. he first year between those rows, especially if you wish to make th most of your ground. A plantation of artichokes will continue to produce good heads for till after the crops of the old standing ones are over.

There are two principal varieties of the garden artichoke; indeed Mr. Miller makes two species of them; the cynara scolymus, or trench artichoke, and the cynara hortensis, or globe artichoke The first being the sort which in former times was most commonly cultivated in france, is generally known by the title of French artichoke. The leaves are terminated by short spines, the head is oval, and the scales do not turn inward at the top like those of the globe artichoke; the heads are of a green color, the bottoms are not near 80 thick of flesh, and have a perfumed taste, which to many persons is very disagreeable, so that it is seldom cultivated where the globe kinds can be procured. fruited, both extremely fine. turn inwards so as closely to cover the middle.

The leaves of the globe artichoke are of a bluer cast, with more and deeper jagg on the cliffs than those of the French: they have small inert prickles like the latter but not so perceptible; the leaves whereas, the globe kind is quite flat at top. The color of the fruit, in the red variety of the globe artichoke, is a reddish-brown, or rather a dusky purple with a tinge of green. After the above descriptions it will be unnecessary to recommend which kind to sow; but being provided with good freah seed of either ort that you desire to cultivate, prepare a piece of ground de directed for the young plantations, and at the distances there menweeds during the whole summer and autumn, and in November you will find the method of their winter treatment, as well as that of the old plants.

Any extra plants that may arise are to be transplanted into now beds the spring following. In the course of the season you may have crops of cauliflowers, cabbages, dwarf-kidney beans, spinage, lettuces, &c. &c., botween the rows; keeping them at a sufficient distance from the young articuokes, so as not to smother or cause them to draw up weakly. Or sow these seeds in a bed so thin as you may oxpect the plants to rise at the distance of six inches, allowing for imperfect seeds and accidents, cover them as above, and in the spring following transplant them as before directed.

The cynara cardunculus, or cardoon artichoke, has been a long time used for culinary purposes, suoh as for salads, soups, stewing, The stalks of the leaves being thick, fleshy, and crisp, are the Sow the seeds towards the latter end of this month or beginning of next, broadcast, in a bed of rich earth, and cover them about three quarters of an inch deep; when the plants are three inches high thin them to four or five inches distant, that they may not be drawn up weak; keep them free from weeds, and towards the latter end of May or beginning of June they will be fit to plant where they are intended to remain for perfection. For their further treatment Ur, as these plants are rather impatient of transplanting, you may sow the seeds at the distances directed in May for the plants, a few Beeds in each spot, and as they advance thin them, leaving only the best plont in each of those squares.

The cynara cardunculus, or cardoon artichoke, has been a long time used for culinary purposes, such as for salads, soups, steving, The stalks of the leaves being thick, fleshy, and crisp, are the re in the seeds towards ho latter end of this mon ath or beginnin of next, broadcast, in a bed of rich earth, and cover them about three-quarters of an inch deep; when the plants are three inches high thin them to four or five inches distant, that they may not be drawn up weak; keep them free from weeds, and towards the latter end of Day or beginning of June they will be fit to plant where thes are intended to remain for perfection. For their further treatment вее May, &c.

Or, as these plants are rather impatient of transplanting, you may sow the seeds at the distances directed in May for the plants, a tew seeds in each spot, and as they advance thin them, leaving only tuc best plant in each of those squares.

The stalks of the leaves being thick, fleshy, and crisp, are the eatable parts, being first blanched by landing them up like celery, to to or three feet high, to render them white, tender, and oi agreeable faror, which otherwise onld be rank and bitter: the are in perfection in autumn and winter. Sor the seeds towards the latter end of this mouth or beginning of next, broadcast, in a bed of rich earth, and cover them about three quarters of an inch decp; when the plants are three inches high thin them to four or fire inches distant, that they may not be drawn up weak; keep them free from weeds, and towards the latter end of May or beginning of June they will be fit to plant where they are intended to remain for perfection. For their further treatment see May, &c.

Or, as these plants are rather impatient of transplanting, you may sow the seeds at the distances directed in May for the plants, a tew seeds in each spot, and as they advance thin them, leaving only the best plant in each of those squares.

The Smyrnium olusatrum, or common Alezanders, are used for culinary purposes as the cardoons, and blanched in like manner. whole plant is of a strong, warm, and aromatio nature, and the leaves and seed are sometimes used for medicine. The seed of this plant should be sown in autumn soon after it is ripe, for if kept out of the ground till spring, few of them will come up till that time twelve months; however, when you sow the seed in spring, let it be done as early as possible, and sown pretty thick in drills eighteen inches asunder, covering the seeds near an inch deep. when the plants are up thin them to six or eight inches distant in th rows, and as they adrance in growth draw the earth up to their stems tender for autumn and winter use; in the spring earth then be hoed up close to each plant, and in three or four weeke they will be blanched and in a fine condition for usc.

When these plants are desired I would recommend them to be sown where they are to remain, in any of the autumn months; 1D that case they will rise freely in spring, and become fine vigorous plants.

The Smyrnium olusatrum, or common Alexanders, are used for culinary purposes as the cardoons, and blanched in like manner. whole plant is of a strong, warm, and aromatio nature, and the leaves and seed are sometimes used for medicine. The seed of this plant should be sown in autumn soon after it is ripe, for if kept out of the ground till spring, few of them will come up till that time twelve months; howerer, when you sow the seed in spring, let it be done as early as possible, and sown pretty thick in drills eighteen inches asunder, covering the seeds near an inch deep; when the plants are up thin them to six or eight inches distant in the rowa, and as they adrance in growth draw the earth up to their stems earth then be hoed up close to each plant, and in three or four weeks they will be blanched and in a fine condition for use.

When these plants are desired I would recommend them to be sown where they are to remain, in any of the autumn months; in that case they will rise freely in spring, and become fine vigorous

The latter end of this month will be a good time to plant cuttings or slips of hyssop, thyme, winter savory, rue, rosemary, lavender, worm wood, southern-wood, sage, and any other under-shrabby kinds; in taking off the slips of any of these sorts give a preterence to th suckers if any, that is, such as have a few fibres attached to them: from such as are not furnished with these, take off slips or cuttings of the young healthy outward shoots produced last year, from about six to ten inches long, according as they occur, observing to slip or cut them clean of close to the parts from whence they proceed. Let these be planted in a bed or border six inches apart, and inserted tro-thirds of their lengths into the ground; they will take root freely by observing to water them in dry weather, and in Septembor will be well rooted, and may either then, or in October, be transplanted wherever destined to remain; or the slips may, in the first instance, be planted in such places.

Propagate tarragon, chamomile, common fennel, marshmallows, pot-marjoram, baum, burnet, horehound, apearmint, poppermint, feverfew, officinal scurvy-grass, catmint, celadine, pennyroyal, or mentha pulegium, angelica, lovage, gromwell, and any other perennial herbaceous plants, and also thyme, hyssop, and winter-savory, by parting their roots or by slips therefrom; the best time for soparating the roots of each and every of the above kinds, is just when they begin to advance a little in growth. All the above kinds may be planted in four feet wide beds, in any tolerably good ground, having twelve to eighteen inch alleys between, and placed in rows lengthwise in the beds, allowing proportionate distances according to their respective growths; or the small growing kinds may be planted in borders, or any other convenient places that are open and well exposed.

The best time to gather any of the preceding kinds for distillation, or to preserve in a dry state for medicinal purposes, &c., is when they are in the first stage of their flowering. You may, towards the latter end of this month or any time in the next, sor seeds of either, or all of the above mentioned kinds, and also of the following anuual plants, for medicinal and culinary purposes, viz: borage, sweet fennel, sweet marjoram, sweet basil, summer savory, fenugreek, pot marigold, anise, and likewise clary, caraway, smallage, and foxglove, &c.; the four last are biennials and do not flower till the second year, but their leaves may be used at any time when arrived at a sufficient size. All these seeds should be sown separately in beds of rich earth, and covered from the eighth of an nen to halt an inch deep in proportion to their size, either in th broadcast way or in drills. or the low growing kinds may be sown 1 single drills along the edges of borders, particularly thyme, ayssop, and winter savory, &c., and when the plants are arrived at a sufficient size, they may be thinned and transplanted into any beds or quarter that can be spared for that purpose. to rise at the distance of six inches, allowing for imperfect seeds and acoidents, cover them as above, and in the spring folloving transplant them as before directed.

The latter end of this month will be a good time to plant cuttings or slips of byssop, thyme, winter savory, rue, rosemary, lavender, wormwood, soutbern-wood, sage, and any other under-shrabog kind:; in taking off the slips of any of these sorts give a preference to the suckers if any, that is, such as have a few fibres attached to them; from such as are not furnished with these, take off slips or cuttings of the young healthy outward shoots produced last year, from about sir to ten inches long, according as they occur, observing to slip or cut them clean off close to the parts from whence they proceed. Let these be planted in a bed or border six inches apart, and inserted tro-thirds of their lengths into the ground; they will take root freely by observing to water them in dry weather, and in September will be tell rooted, and may either then, or in October, be trans planted wherever destined to remain; or the slips may, in the frat Propagate tarragon, tansy, chamomile, common fennel, marshmallows, pot-marjoram, baum, burnet, horehound, spearmint, peppermint, fererfew, offcinal scurvy-grass, catmint, celadine, penagroyal, or mentha pulegium, angelica, lorage, gromwell, and any other perennial herbaceous plants, and also thyme, byssop, and winter-savory, by parting their roots or by slips therefrom; the best time for sepa rating the roots of each and every of the above kinds, is just when they begin to advance a little in growth.

All the above kinds maj be planted in four feet wide beds, in any tolerably good ground, baring twelve to eighteen inch alleys between, and placed in roms lengthwise in the beds, allowing proportionate distances according to their respective growths; or the small growing kinds may be planted in soried, or any other conrenient places ibat are open act mell The best time to gather any of the preceding kinds for distillation or to preserve in a dry state for medicinal purposes, 2c., is ar they are in the first stage of their flowering. You may, towards the latter end of this month or any time in next, sow seeds of either, or all of the above mentioned kinds, it also of the following annual plants, for medicinal and culinar par poses, viz: borage, street fennel, sneet marjoram, sweet basil, summer sarory, fenugreek, pot marigold, anise, and likewise C.3r3, car. may, smallage, and foxglore, &c.; the four last are bienniais and do not fomer till the second year, but their leaves may be ted 2: 20 time when arrived at a sufficient size.

All these seeds shoold be some separately in beds of rich earth, and corered from the eighth of 2? inch to half an inch deep in proportion to their size ribber is the broadeast war or in drills, or the low growinz kinder be somain single drills along the edges of borders, particolarls three, -gop, and winter savor, dic., and when the planta are arried a sadies: size, they may be thinned and transplanted into ang beds or quarters that can be spared for that purpose.

The Smyrnium olusatrum, or common Alexanders, are used for culinary purposes as the cardoons, and blanched in like manner. hole plant is of a strong, warm, and aromatio nature, and the leaves and seed are sometimes used for medicine. The sced of this plant should be sown in autumn soon after it is ripe, for if kept out of the ground till spring, few of them will come up till that time twelve months; however, when you sow the seed in spring, let it be done as early as possible, and sown pretty thick in drills eighteen inches asunder, covering the seeds near an inch deep when the plants are up thin them to six or eight inches distant in the rowa, and as they advance in growth draw the earth up to their stems a8 you do to celery, in order to blanch and whiten them, that they should be crisp and tender for autumn and winter use: in the spring allowing scaremain will shot on again vigorousy, let the earth then be hoed up close to each plant, and in three or four weeks bey will be blanched and in a fine condition for use.

When these plants are desired I would recommend them to be sown where they are to remain, in any of the autumn months; in that case they will rise freely in spring, and become fine vigorous plants.

to rise st the distance of sis inches, alloming for imperfect seeds sod socidents, corer them as above, and in the spring folloring trassplent them as before directed.

The latter end of this month will be good time to pare endings or slips of byssop, thyme, winter sorory, ros, remar sonder Tormitood, sontbern-wood, sage, and ang stber code arti, ane. in taking off the slips of any of these sorte Ete 1 70s0mea suckon if ang, that is, such 2s bare a few For 1genet a hen from such as are not furnished mith these, toke of rige to suring: of the young healthy outmard shoots procco mar on ahmet sir to ten inches long, according de the? poete, comer in in 10 eat them clean off close to the parts frog aleze to great. e these be planted in a bed or border siz fores agar at need tro-thirds of their lengths into the groced; deg vil the tor freely br observing to mater them in deg Tenan, Eat toniler be rooted, and may enter the, Dra grover, j7 sos. planted whererer destined to rezain; or the Lips nur a be free instanee, be planted in sach places.

Propagate tarragon, tansy, chameelle, common inue: cort. =allons, pot-marjoram, baum, bartet, bondound arm 1mne miat, fererfer, ofcinal scurry-grass, elize calm: 120002or mentha pulegium, angelica, lorage, grove cal an our perc. ca barbaces plants, and also ise rm a ma-am is parting their roots or b5 slips therefron; the un tina in vot ratag the rocts of each and every of the chore tines & Tas Tue they begin to adrance a little in growth. be a for feet mide beds in ang tom bit on good ama tele to eighteen inch allege betwee, 200 pet 10 Te ca mise in the beds, allowing proportionite Bene moonie; ten respective growths; or the small growing tints more Face. 2 borders, or any other contentent -laces erposed.

The best time to gather any of the preceding tinds fe Birea or to preserve in a dry state for medical puzose a. i Then ther are in the first stage of their fowering. You may, towards the latter end of thir monti or an tito: 2 the DEZt, som seeds of either, or all of the chore monte and and also of the following annual plants, for medicinal ani mainer n20 poses, riz: borage, steet fennel, meet marioran see nas st mer satory, fenugreel, pot marigold, anise, and itories rier. on- Fus, smallage, and forglore, &c.; the four last an niami an a pot flower till the second Jear, but their leaves mas i san a ay time when arrived at a sufficient size. All these seed. shoul. Dram sepurutely in beds of rich earth, and covered fran: to Me • inch to half an inch deep in proportion to their site. eithe 1. 1b broadcast way or in drills, or the low growing bind man A amen single drills along the edges of borders, particulart chian 1erg and minter savory, &c., and mhen the plants an artive ain solfeier size, they may be thinned and transplanted into at had sinner that can be spared for that purpose.

This plant is extremely valuable as an ingredient in pickles, to which it gives a most exquisite flavor: the seeds when ripe are frequently used for that purpose, but it is the more general practice when they are formed, and not yet perfect, to cut off the umbels or heads, and then use them as above. This seed should be sown in any of the autumn months after being ripe, and will come up the spring following, for when kept out of ground till the latter period, one-third of it and perhaps less, will not vegetate till that time twelve months, but if sown very early in March, and thick, you may expect a tolerable crop that season; sow it broaucast on four feet wide beds, covering it, if sown in autumn, half an inch, and if in spring, a quarter of an inch deep; when the plants come up, thin them to six inches distant, and the same season they will perfect their seeds, which, if any are suffered to shed, will not fail to come up plentifully the next year.

The Finochio has very short stalks, which swell just above the surface of the ground to three or four inches in breadth, and near tro thick, being fleshy and tender; this is the part which is esten when blanched with oil, vinegar and pepper as a cold salad. For the cultivation of this plant, make choice of a good spot of light rich earth, not dry nor very wet, for in either extreme it will not thrivo. Sow the seeds pretty thin in shallow drilla about eighteen inches asunder, covering them half an inch deep; when they come up thin them, leaving the best plants six inches distant from one another: about the beginning of July your first crop, if sown in March, will be fit for blanching, at which time you are to earth it up as you do celery, and in three reeks after it will be in a good condition for use.

To have a regular succession of this plant, some seed must be sown every three weeks during the season, and your late crops may be preserved in winter as you do celery.

The different varieties of the capsicums, tomatoes, and egg-plants eing in meatimation for culinary purposes, you should sow some i each kind now in pots, and forward them in vour hot-beds, so as to have strong plants ready for planting out into the open ground ns early in Mayas the night frosts shall have totally disappeared. and every of these kinds bear transplanting extremely well, and from this sowing you may expect early and abundant crops. For further particulars, see April, May, &c.

as you have preserved during the winter to raise seed from; the cabbages are to be planted in rows four feet asunder, one foot distant rom each other in the rows, and up to their heads in the earth; the thers may be planted in four feet wide beds. at the distance of or twelve inches root from root, or in rows at pleasure; observing to tie up the shoots to stakes placed for that purpose, as they advance for seeding, to prevent their being brokon down by winds, heavy rains, &c.

dung, and advantageously situated. Be careful to procure the earliest kinds, from which select a quantity of the best formed and soundest roots, and of a tolerable size; these are to be cut into sets, a week before planting, in order that the rounds should have time to form a dry crust; for if planted at this scason immediately after being cut, they would imbibe too much moisture, many of them rot, and all would be greatly weakened thereby; cut each root into two, three or more pieces, according to their size; minding particularly that each cut be furnished with one or two good eyes or buds, rhich is sufficient. They are then to be planted in rows two feet and a half asunder, the sets to be nine inches distant in the row, and three or four inches deep. Should severe frost ensue protect them by laying some long litter or wispy dung over the drills.

This plant is cultivated by cuttinga of the root, either cut from the cop an inch or two long, or some old roots cut into pieces of that length, or by small offsets that arise from the sides of the main root. retaining the crowns or top shoots on as many aå possible. Being furnished with these sets, choose in an open situation a light and rich soil, which trench regularly two spades deep, at the same time giving it a good dressing of manure; then beginning at one end of the ground, range a line, and with a large dibble make holes about ten inches deep, all of an equal depth and about six inches asunder, dropping as you go on, one set or cutting into each hole, with the crown upright, taking care to fll or close the holes up properly with the earth, and let the rows be two feet asunder.

Or you may the earth of the next course, and so proceed till all are planted. After this, level the surface of the ground even, observing to keep it free from weeds until the plants are so far advanced as to be strong enough to overbear and keep them down. With this management the roots will be long, straight, and free from many small lateral offsets, and the second year after planting will be fit for use. It is true they may be taken up the first year, but then the roots will be slender; therefore it is the better way to let them remain till the second, when they will be in a fine condition; and it in taking up the roots you take care to leave some offsets still remaining, you will have a successional supply for many ycars.

The glycyrrhiza glabra, or cultivated liquorice, brings enormous profit to the industrious cultivator: it is of considerable importance in medicine, and consequently in great demand by the druggists and apothecaries; and also by porter brewers, being a very material ingredient in that article. Of 4000 quintals, or nearly no hundred tons, annually exported from Spain, the far greater part 1s considered to be purchased by the porter brewers of London. About Pontefract, in Yorkshire, England, where it is cultivated in possible perfection; thereby to prevent the necessity of importing large quantities of it annually from Europe, at a considerable expense, and in a much inferior condition to what it could be had if cultivated at home. In hopes that this may be attempted by some spirited persons, who may have the welfare of their country, ns well as their own at heart, I shall proceed to give the method of bringing this valuable plant to the utmost perfection.

'ne liquorice delights in a light sandy rich soil, which should be three feet deep at least, for the goodness as well as the profits arısing trom the culture of this plant is proportionate to the size and length fits roots. The ground in which you intend to plant it should be aiguly manured and well dug the autumn before, that the dung ma be perfectly rotted and mized with the earth. Immediately previous to planting, trench the ground thrce spades deep, if the natural soil be good that depth, and lay it very light. When your ground is thus prepared you should furnish yourself with fresh plants, taken from the sides or heads of the old roots, observing that each has one or two good buds or eyes, otherwise they are subject to miscarry• Those, plants should be from six to ten inches long, and perfectly The best season for planting them in the middle States is the latter end of March, or just when their buds begin to show symptoms of fresh regetation, which must be done in the following manner, viz: first strain a line across the ground, then with a long dibble put in the roots so that the whole plant may be set straight in the ground, with the top about nu inch under the surface, in a straight line, and about a foot or n little more asunder, and two feet distance from row to row. You may then sow a thin crop of radishes, onions, lettuces, or any other small-growing cropy, in drills, between the rows, keeping the whole clean, particularly the rising plants of liquorice, durin, the summer and autumn.

In the November following, you should carefully hoe and clean the ground. The shoots and leaves being then decaved, out them off and spread a little rotten dung on thc surface, the virtue of which will be washed into the ground by the rains, and the plants greatly improved thereby. In the March following you should slightly dig the ground between the rows, burying the remaining part of the dung; but in doing this you should be careful not to injure the roots. Let nothing now be either sowed or planted between the rows, but keep them almaya clean; and in autumn, when the stalks of the liquorice are decayed, cut them down close to the surface of the earth as before.

The same work is to be repeated annually till the plants are three years old, when they will be fit for taking up—that is, slightly stir the ground every spring and autumn, keeping down the weeds in summer by hoeing—but after the first or socond year the stalks will shoot so vigorously as goon to cover the ground and greatly retard the growth of weeds. The proper season for taking up the roots is November, for they suould not be taken up until the stalks are fully decayed, nor deterred till the sap begins to circulate afresh in spring, for in either case the roots would be apt to shrivel and diminish in weight, which would be a loss to the cultivator, as it is by weight they are always sold.

The method of taking up the roots is by trenching the ground, beginning at one side and opening a trench close to the first row, three spades deep, or to the depth of the roots, at which work three or four spadesmen are generaliy employed at a trench. One goes on with the top spit, a second with the next, and another with the third, and the fourth commonly gets to the bottom of the roots, having a mattock to assist him occasionally to clear them. As be takes them up he throws them on the top of the ground, and in this manner they proceed from row to row till the whole plantation is taken up. The small side roots are then trimmed off, the best divided into lengths for fresh sets, which are to be carefully preserved in earth till the time of planting, if not planted immediately, and the main roots are washed clean, dried, and tied in bundles for sale.

When liquorice is intended to be cultivated on a large scale, the rows may be planted three feet distant, and the labor of hoeing performed with a small plough. must be care in nod to stered ba to be en tagen top is large gator tities, lest they should become mouldy, as this vegetable, unless preserved in a dry place, is very liable to such corruption.

There are several species of this plant, but the rheum palmatum, or true oficinal rhubarb, is that which merits particulur attention. It is a native of China and Russian Tartary, has braved the climate of St. Petersburg, grows to good perfection in Scotland, as far nortu as Perthshire (lat. 56°); also in England, Turkey, and. various ofber parts of Europo; is an article of considerable consumption, consequently of national importance, and bigbly deserving of attention in

the United States. It grows to the greatest possible pertection among the Tartarian mountains, from Selin to Thibet, without any other culture than what is afforded by the scraping of the Marmots; and shall we despair of bringing it to perfection where soil and cli mate are perfectly congenial, and nothing wanted but the enterprise of a few spirited individuals to make a commencement? no doubt that if the culture of this and liquorice were duly attended to that the crops would more than amply repay the cultirators; and although a partiality to articles of customary culture is in the way, it is to be hoped that new and necessary plants will, from me to time, be introduced and cultivated with advantage to the individuals and the nation at large.

The following is the mode of its culture: Having procured a sufficient quantity of seed of the true kind, select a piece of light rich bandy loam, such as answers for asparngus, and after giving it a good coat of manure, treuch it two or three spades deep, if the good soil admits; after which, level the top neatly and lay it out by line into squares of four feet, at the angles or intersections of which you are to form little cireles with your finger about six or eight inches in diameter, and on each scatter a few seeds, then cover them with light ine mould three-quarters of an inch deep. The seeds should be sown as early in spring as possible, or, if this had been done in No vember, they would vegetate in spring with more certainty. the young plants appear, keep them free from weeds, and in dry weather give them frequently a little water, but not much at a time; and above all things protect them from the mid-day sun till they get considerably strong, for, if exposed fully to this, during their infant state, few of them would escape destruction thereby.

Were you to place a piece of board on end, about fiften inches broad and two feet and a half high, at the south side of each hill, leaning a little over the plants, this would answer the eud effectually without depriving them of the benefit of the circulating air. The first season is their critical period, having survived that they have nothing to fear after- Onions, lettuces, or any other low-growing crops may be either sown or planted in the intervals for the first ycar, so that they are kept at a proper distance from the young plants. The supernumerary plants, one being sufficient to be left in each of these places for ultimate perfection, may be transplanted the spring following into new plantations, similarly propared and at the samo distance.

The November following, all the leaves being then decayed, cover the crowns of the plants tio inches deep with earth from the intervals; and if there is danger of any wet lodging, throw up trenches, rounding the beds as is commonly done to asparagus, and for the irst winter, lay some dry litter over the plants. In the March fol- Lowing, strip the corering till you just perceire the tops of the plants, ite all the ground a slight digging and dress it neatly after you bserving to keep the beds wel • hoed, and always froe from weeds. Thus proceed every autumn and spring, till the roots have four years growth, when some of them may be takon up for use; but it is generally admitted that their medicinal virtues increase until they are eight or ten years old. lou must be very circumspect in the choice of ground; particuarly, that it is not subject to lodgo wet, for this plant by no means agrees witu too much moisture, preferring & rich dry sandy loam to any other kind of soil.

Rhubarb may also be propagated by offsets from the old roots, or by soming the geed in seed-beds, and transplanting them when a old into such beds and at the same distances as before directed for sowing the seed; but they always produce larger and better roots when sown where they are to remain. The proper time to take up the roots for use in autumn, after the leaves and stalks are totally decayed; when taken. up, wash them clean, trim off the small fibres, and lay them in an airy place to dry, for four days, then rasp off the outward skin, which greatly obstructs the quickness of drying, from the pores not being laid open for the herbaceous moisture to exhale; the mere stripping off the bark will not be sufficient, the rasping it off, and the lacerating of the outward part of the root adjoining it will be necessary; for tue lateral pores must be opened to permit the confined watery fluid to crude freely.

Then cut them in slices, which string on puck-thread eo as not to touch, and hang them up in a stove room, to be kept constantly warin till they are effectually dry. Should the season even prove hot cnough for drying them in the sun, the former method would be preferable, for, by exposing them so much to the sun and light, they would be greatly impuired in the color, and perhaps some of their finer parts dissipated thereby; but culinary heat is free from that objection, and at the same time possesses all the advantages of quick drying. The drying of the roots, without suffering them to get mouldy, must be carefully attended to, as a neglect in this point would render all your former industry fruitless, and it is considered among the cultirators as a difficult task.

The marks of the goodness of rhubarb are, the liveliness of its color when cut; its being firm and solid, but not flinty or bard; 1ts being easily pulverable, and appearing, when powdered, of a bright yellow color; on being chewed, its imparting to the spittle a doep satiron tinge, and not proving slimy or mucilaginous in the mouth. The true officinal or palmated rhubarb bas numerous root-leaves, large, rough, of a roundish figure, deply cut into lobes and irregularly pointed segments on long, smooth, round footstalls. leaves, one at each. joint, issuing from a membranous sheath successively smaller upwards. Flowers surrounding the branches in numerous clusters, and forming a kind of spike. Corolla or flowers of a greenish-white. the ferruginous or reddish-brown color of the stem The species or essarora cour denhe item braides and petioles or leafstalks, the particular palmate form of the leaves, and the elegant looseness of the little panicles of flowers which display tuemselves on erect, round, hollow, jointed, slightly scored stems branching towards the top, and from six to eight feet high.

This has a large thick root, which divides into many strong fleshy range, running deep into the ground; the outside of a reddish-brow color, and the inside yellow, from which arise several leaves, in number according to the size of the root; those come up folded in the spring, and afterwards expand themselves; they are smooth, of a roundish heart shape, having very thick footstalks of a reddish color, which are a little channelled on their lower part, but flat at the top. When the plant grows on very rich land, the footstalks of the leaves are over two feet long, and as thick as a mon's wrist; the leaves also are often three feet long, and as much in breadth, having several strong longitudinal veins running from the footstalk to the borders of a deep green, and waved on iheir edges, having an acid taste, but particularly the footstalks, which are very frequently used, and much esteemed for tarts and pies.

The flower-stalks grow from four to five feet high, and are terminated by thick, close spikes of white flowers. Its roots afford a gentle purge, but is of much inte rior quality to the former, and may be cultivated the same way as directed for that. The best varieties are Myatt's Victoria and LinnauB, and Coboon's Seedling.

The seeds should be sown this month in a rich sandy soil; and if the plants come up too thick, thin them; a good method for doing so is to let them stand in stools four feet distant every way, two or three plants in each, as it is more convenient for blanching, which is very eusily done in the following manner: clear the ground around them from the old leaves or stoms, place a large size flower-pot or small beg over each stool, and then cover it about two feet thick all around with good warm manure, and it will be finely blanched by the beginning of May. Or the old plants may be bedded in soil in a warm cellar, before winter, in which case it may be had much earlier for use.

The plants for this purpose should be three years old. Many persons do not take this trouble, but it will more than repay, being muel greater in quantity and better in quality than if suffered to cror It is much more user as apple butter is here.

Who helianthus tuberosus, or tuberous rooted sunflower, commonly called the Jerusalem artichoke. "This root," says Parkinson, an ancient Eoclish writer, " our ancestors boiled tender, and then being pecled, ate them sliced and stewed with butter, wine and spicesof an archoke, bene progueen, being as pleasantant aey boa, is they beal not the least resemblance in growth to an artichoke.