February 1857

The Kitchen Garden is a principal district of garden-ground allotted for the culture of all kinds of esculent herbs and roots for culinary purposes, &c.

This may be said to be the most useful and consequential department of gardening, since its products plentifully supply our tables with the necessary support of life; for it is allowed that health depends much on the use of a proper quantity of wholesome vegetables, so that it is of the utmost importance for every person possessed of a due extent of ground to have a good kitchen garden for the supply of his family.

This garden is not only useful for raising all sorts of esculent plants and herbage, but also all the choicer sorts of tree and shrub fruits, &c., both on espaliers and standards; and should be situated as near to the dwelling-house as convenience and propriety will admit.

back part of them planted with a range of espalier fruit-trees, surrounding the quarters; the front with flowers and small shrubg: and the inner quarters for thọ growth of the kitchen vegetables, &c.

As to situation, it can only be observed in general, that both high and low, if the soil be suitablo, will produce good crops of escaleut herbage and fruits, though a moderately low situation is the most preferable, as being less exposed to the influence of cold cutting vinds in spring, and more retentive of moisture daring the summer months, which are advantages worthy of attention both of the early and of the other principal crops. A situation having a moderate slope is very eligible for this purpose, as in such a spot there will not be any danger of water standing, nor of being too wet at any soason; and if it slopes towards the south, it is the more desirable, as it will not only be better defended from the cold northwesterly winds, but by its exposure or aspect inclining to the sun, you nay always expect to have the earliest crops; or when the situation is in some parts a little elevated or gently sloping, and in others low and moist, it may be some advantage, as the bighor or sloping ground will suit some early crops, and serve for wintering several sorts of plants that are impatient of copious moisture in that season, such as artichokes, spinage, corn, salad, lettuce, &c.; and the low ground will be cligible for late summer crops, as beets, kidney-beans, cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuce, and several others. •Howerer, as to choice of situntion and soil, this only is practicable in large estates; but where persons are limited to a moderate space, they must be content with such as nature affords; observing in this case, that if the natural soil is of a proper temperament and depth, you need not be under any great anxiety about the situation if it is moderately dry, and not apt to be overflowed in winter; even in that case, it may be remedied or greatly helped, by digging two or three long, narrow canals, and from these some under-ground hollow drains, the earth from which will help to raise the contiguous ground higher, and the water in the canals will be conrenient for watering the plants. Remarking that a situation too wet in winter should be guarded against as much as the nature of the place will admit; for in such land you can never have, early nor good general crops, nor will the fruit-trees be pros- With respect to soil, that for a kitoen garden of all others, requires to be naturally good, of depth enough for the growth of the Jargo perpendicular esculent roots, as carrots, parsneps, red beet, horse-radiah, dc., also for the growth of fruit-trees, a very material article; so that the proper soil for these general purposes should, if garden, that where there is scope of ground to chooso from, we cannot be too cautious at first in fixing on a proper spot where the soil is good and deep enough, as above, before gravel, clay, or other bad. for, without a Different sorts of soils are met with in different parts, as loamy, clayey, sandy, dc. A loamy soil, either of a brown or black color, is the best that can be for this purpose, more particularly a light sandy soil is common in many places, which is of a very light, sharp pature; this must be fertilized by plenty of rotten dung and strong earths, when they can be casily procured.

It is observable that ground which constantly produces good crops of grain and grass, is also proper for the growth of all esculent herbs and fruit-trees. Choose, however, the best soil you can, according to the situation and extent of your ground, and if it happens to prove unfarorable stronger substance, such as loam and the like, it it can be easily obtained, must be added occasionally, along with plenty of dung, working the whole with the natural soil of the garden; and should your garuen be of a clagey, cold, damp nature, add light materials, both of rich composts and light sandy soils; nothing is more proper, where it can be had, than plenty of coal ashes, dc., for opening and warming all tough, stabborn, cold soils.

Water is a very essential article in a kitchen garden in summer, to water all new tronsplanted plants and others that cannot subsist without a due supply of moisture during the drought of that season; inerefore, in large gardens, there practicable, one or more reservoirs of water should be contrived in the most convenient part of the ground, either in basins or narrow canals, and supplied with water from some contiguous spring, river, brook, pond, well, dc. The necessary space of ground proper for a family kitchen garden, may be from about a quarter of an acre, or less, to six or eight acres, or more, according te appropriated limits of ground, the number and demand of the family, the consumption by sales, or the expense the proprietor would choose to bestow on the making and general culture.

A kitchen garden of an acre will nearly employ oue man, especially if it be furnisbed with espalier and other fruit-trees, and so in proportion to a garden of smaller or larger extent: a garden of the above size will produce a very plentiful supply of esculent herbage and fruit sufficient at least for a family of ten or fifteen persons; but on large estates, and where the family is considerable in proportion, FEв.] If the produce is intended for sale, the garden must be large in proportion to the demand.

With respect to tences for inclosing the ground, it is most neces ary to hare an effectual fence of some sort around the kitchen-gar den, both for security of the produce and to defend tender and early crops from cutting winds. gan is to to oil ted tound the probe poo rain the den is that eitber of a square or oblong square; but the figure may be varied as the necessity of the case may require; keeping, however, as ncar as possible to the square or oblong form, especially if the round is to be fenced with materials for training fruit-trees; no other shape answers so well for that purpose; for trial having been made of cireles, ovals, semicircles, angles, &c., none succeed near so well as the square form.

Different sorts of fences are used for inclosing this ground, as walls, palings, and hedges, &c. Sometimes board fences or palings are used, both for protection and for training fruit-trees to. When such are intended for trees, the boarding should be tongued and closely joined edge to edge, so ng to form a plane or even surface for the commodious training the branches. In gardens where no wall trees are intended, a hedge, or bank and hedge is a very proper fence; which may be so trained as to form both an effectual fence against men and beasts, also to shelter particular parts of the ground for raising early crops: a hawthorn hedge 1s the most proper, thouga other sorts may be used.

No fencing, howerer, for a kitchen-garden here intended to have wall trees, especially in the more nortberly parts of the Union, is equal to brick walls, which are considerably stronger, warmer, and more durable than paling fences; and their natural warmth, together with their reflection of the sun's heat, is the most effectual for the growth and ripening of the latest and more delicate kinds of fruit. kito gall as for on bound of bood are ofage erected in lage

The whole ground should be regularly trenched two spades deep; observing if the soil is poor or of bad quality, and wants amendment, ituer of dung or any of the materials before mentioned, such must previously be added, and then trenched in betwist the bottom and top pits, so as next year when it comes to be digged again, and the compost being well meliorated, will be worked up and mixed with the natural soil.

[EER. Do not omit onriching and improving the borders of the wall* and se plier real i did a drabs, or pos of me do and earth from the surface of a field or pasture common, either to the whole, or rather than fail, a few barrowfuls at first to each place where a tree is to stand, and improve the rest afterwards by degreea full scopo to run in search of nourishment; and moreover, the annual digging and stirring the ground for the culture of the herbaceous esculents, greatly encourages the trees; hence the utility of haring a broad border. Next to this border a walk should be continued also all around the garden of proper width, as mentioned below; then proceed to divide the interior parts into two, four or more principal divisions and walks, if its extent be large; first, if the ground is of some considerable width, a straight walk should run directly through the middle of the garden; and another, if thought necessary, may be directed across the ground, intersecting the first; and if the gar. den oxtends any considerable length, two or more such cross walks may be necessary; the width of the walks may be from about fire to ten or twelve feet, in proportion to the extent of the garden; and each of the quarters should be surrounded with a five or six feet proftable in the annual production of superior fruit of different kinds.

I would not, hoverer, by any means advise dividing small or moderate-sized gardens into too many walks and small quarters, espe oially if they are to be surrounded by espaliers, which would render them too confined for the proper growth of culinary herbage; besides, it would be wasting too much of the ground in walks. In one of the quarters a placo should be allotted for the framing ground; that is, a place for making the hot-beds for raising early cucumbers, melons, and othor tendor plants; fixing on a spot for this purpose, full to the sun from rising to setting, sheltered as much as bringing in the dung for the hot-beds. This place, if not so situated as to be sholterod by the walls or other fences of the garden, it will be of much advantage to inclose it with a close fonco of some kind, serving both to break off the winds, and by having a door to lock, will preserve your crops more * Observo that all troes planted against and trained to either paling or board fences, do., producine frit on one side only, are denominated woll trees, as well as if planted to actual brick or stone walls; in contradistinton to espalier trees, which produce fruit on both sides. secure; these fences may be six or seven feet high in the back or north side, with both the side fences sloping gradually to about five feet high in front, which should always be lowest to admit the sun freely.

With regard to the borders and walks of this garden, the outer borders adjoining the walks should be neatly formed I, the edgea made firm and straight, and the walk gravelled, or laid with other dry ma- The edges of the borders in small gardens are frequently planted with box, &c., especially in gardens where the kitchen and pleasure round are all in one; sometimes part are odged with under shrubby aromatic herbs, as tbyme, savory, byssop, and the like, but unless these are kept low and neat they appear unsightly; some, however, t the border made up even, cut it straight by line; sometimes along the top of this' edging is planted a row of strawberries, a foot or fifteen inches asunder; they will bear plentifully and have a good effect, observing to string them several times in summer to preserve them neat and within due compass.

Sometimes grass-walks are used, but these are rather improper for general use in kitchen gardens, especially in such parts of the garden where wheelbarrows are obliged to come often, which would cut and greatly deface them; besides, they are apt to be wet and disagreeable in all wet weather and in winter; but if any are intended for summer's walking, they should be only in some dry part of the garden, and never let them be general, for besides the aforementioned inconveniences, they are apt to harbor slugs and other crawling vermin, to the detriment of the adjacent crops. The espaliers should be planted in one range round each main quarter, about four or five or six feet from the outer edge of the border, in proportion to its width, and from about fifteen to twenty fect asunder, according to the sorts of fruit-trees you plant.

Within the espaliers in the quarters, you may plant some standard and fruit-trees of the choicer sorts, at fifty feet or more distance each way, especially the large growing standards, that they may not shade the ground too much. Likewise in the quarters may be planted the small kinds of fruitshrubs, as gooseberries, currants and raspberries, in cross rows, so as to divide the quarters into breaks of twenty or thirty feet wide, or more; others in a single range along near the outward edges, or some in continued plantations, placing the bushes nine feet asunder in each row, and if kept somewhat fan-spreading the way of the rows, they will not enoumber the ground, and will bear very plentiful crops of large fruit; besides, between these rows you can have various early and late crops of vegetables.

In many places, however, as formerly noticed, there is but a small compass of ground, or so limited as to be obliged to have the kitchen, fruit, and pleasure-gardens all in one, or at least often all within the

Do not omit onriching and improving the borders of the wall* and espalier trees, by adding a considerable portion of rotten dung; and if the natural soil is not good, add also, if possible, some good loamy earth from the surface of a field or pasture common, either to the whole, or rather than fail, a few barrowfuls at first to each place where a tree is to stand, and improve the rest afterwards by degrees at leisure. The ground must be divided into compartments for regularity and convenience. A border must be carried round close to the boundary walls or fences, not less than five, but if six or eight feet wide, the better, both for rising various early and other kitchen crops, and for the beneft of the wall trees, if any, that their roots may baro full scope to run in rearch of nourishment; and moreover, the annual digging and stirring the ground for the culture of the herbaceous esculents, greatly encourages the trees; hence the utility of baring a broad border.

Next to this border a talk should be continued also all around the garden of proper width, as mentioned below; then proceed to divide the interior parts into two, four or more principal divisions and walks, if its extent be larze; first, if the ground is of some considerable width, a straight rall should run directly through the middlo of the garden; and another, if thought necessary, may be directed across the ground, intersecting the first; and if the gar den oxtends any considerable length, tiro or more such cross walks may be necessary; the width of the walks may be from about fre to ten or twelve feet, in proportion to the extent of the garden; and each of the quarters should be surrounded with a fire or sir feet wide border; and a range of espalier fruit-trees may be planted along towards the back part of each border, so that every quarter will b inclosed with an ospalier, which will be ornamental in growth, and profitable in the annual production of superior fruit of different kinds.

I would not, hoverer, by any means advise dividing small or moderate-sized gardens into too many walks and small quarters, especially if they are to be surrounded by espaliers, which would render them too confined for the proper growth of culinary herboge; besides, it would be wasting too much of the ground in walks. In one of the quarters a place should be allotted for the framing ground; that is, a place for making the hot-beds for raising early cucumbers, melons, and othor tender plants; fixing on a spot for this purpose, full to the sun from rising to setting, sheltered as much as possible from the northerly winds, and conveniently situated for ringing in the dung for the hot-beds This place, if not so situated as to be sheltered by the malls or other fences of the garden, it will be of much advantage to inclose it with a close fonco of some kind, serving both to break off the winds, and by having a door to lock, will presorve your crops more * Obserre that all trees planted against and trained to either paling or secure; these fences may be six or seven feet high in the back or north side, with both the side fences sloping gradually to about five feet high in front, which should always be lowest to admit the sun freely.

With regard to the borders and walks of this garden, the outer borders adjoining the walks should be neatly formed, the pages made irm and straight, and the walk gravelled, or laid with other dry materials. The edges of the borders in small gardens are frequently planted with box, &c., especially in gardens where the kitchen and pleasureground are all in one; sometimes part are odged with under shrubby aromatic herbs, as thyme, savory, byssop, and the like, but unless these are kept low and neat they appear unsightly; some, however, use no planted edgings at all in kitchen gardens, only have the edge of the border made up even, treading it firm that it may stand, then cut it straigut by line; sometimes along the top of this edging is planted a row of strawberries, a foot or fifteen inches asunder; they bear plentifully and have a good effect, observing to string them several times in summer to preserve them neat and within due com pass.

Within the espaliers in the quarters, you may plant some standard and fruit-trees of the choicer sorts, at fifty feet or more distance each way, especially the large growing standards, that they may not shade Likewise in the quarters may be planted the small kinds of fruitshrubs, as gooseberries, currants and raspberries, in cross rows, so as to divide the quarters into breaks of twenty or thirty feet wide, or more; others in a single range along near the outward edges, or some in continued plantations, placing the bushes nine feet asunder in each row, and if kept somewhat fan-spreading the way of the rows, they will not enumber the ground, and will bear very plentiful crops of large fruit; besides, between these rows you can have various early and late crops of vegetables.

In many places, however, as formerly noticed, there is but a small compass of ground, or so limited as to be obliged to have the kitchen, [TEB. which hare the kitchen ground, separating it also from the other with ornamental walks and borders, having a broad border all round, and next this, a walk from five or six to eight feet wide, carried all round the garden, in proportion to its size, and if the ground is of some considerable width, may have one of similar dimensions extended directly through the middle; and next the walks hare a border of four or five to six or seren fcet wide, carried round the quarters or principal divisions, which border, if raised a little sloping, from the front to the back part, will appear better than if quite flat; planting a range of espalier fruit-trees along towards the back edge of the border, so as immediately to surround the quarters, allotting the outrides of the borders for small esculents or flowers, and small flowering shrubs, baring the edges planted with box, &c., or some with strawberries and other edging-plants, and the walks neatly laid with gravel or other materials before mentioned; the inside, within the espaliers, to be the kitchen-ground, dividing it, if thought necessary, by rows of gooseberry, currant, and raspberry plants.

But when necessary to have the whole space of the kitchen garden emplored for real use, no ground should be lost in ornamental borders and walks: have a border all around the boundary fence, five or six feet wide, except the south borders, which should be seven or eight feet broad, because of their great use for raising early crops; and have a walk around the garden, not more than a jard to fire or six feet wide, allowing the same width for the middle walks, or so as to admit of wheelbarrows passing to bring in the manure, &c., and may either have a four feet wide border all around each quarter next the walks, or not, as you shall think proper; laying the walks neatly with any gravelly materials, or with coal ashes, &c., so as to haro dry walking and wheeling with a barrow in all weathers.

Air must be admitted to them every day when the weather is any way favorable, by raising the upper ends of the glasses from about half an inch to an inch or two, or in proportion to the sharpness or mildness of the outward air and internal heat and steam of the bed. In giving the plants nir, it is a good method at this season, especially in severe cutting weather, to fasten a mat across the ends of the lights wero tilted, to hang down detachedly over the place where the air enters the frame; the mat will break the wind and sharp air bofore it reaobes the plants, and yet thore will be a due proportion admitted without exposing thern directly to it, and there will also be full liberty to let the steam pass off.

Lilsewise, in covering the glasses on nights with mats, if there be a strong heat and great steam in the bed, lot the lights be raised a lille behind when you cover up; let them remain so all night, and use the mats as above mentioned, to hang down low before the place where the glasses are raised; but this must be done with caution in very severe frost. One great article to be attended to now is to support a constant temperate beat in the hot-bed, so as to keep the plants in a regulat first thing to be observed towards this is that in six or eight days after ridging out the plants, provided the beat of the bed is become it close around the sidos a foot thick, and as high as five or six inches up the sides of the frame; but this will be particularly serviceable in very ret weather, but more espeoially in driving cold rains or snow, and also if there be cold pieroing winds, all of which rould chill the bed, and, without the above precaution, would sometimes occasion such a sudden and great decay of the heat as to prove the manifest destruction of the plants; whereas the above lining will defend the bed, and preserve a fine heat till the dung bogins naturally to decline or docay of itself, which is generally in about three weeks or a month after the bed is made, when the varunth of it must be renewed by adding a lining of fresh hot dung close to its sides and But for the first reck or ten days after the plants are ridged out into this hot-bed, mind that their roots have not too much heat; for it sometimes happens that a bed after the mould and plants are in (the earth confining the heat and steam below in the dung) will begin afresh to heat so violently as to be in danger of burning the earth at the bottom of the hills, and without some precaution is taken the burning will soon reach the roots of the plants; therefore, for the first week or ten days, let the bottom of these bills be at times examined by drawing away a little of the earth below; and, if any burning appears, remore the burnt earth, replace it with new, and, by drawing some away quite around, let the hills be kept as narrow as they will just stand, so as to support the plants, and let them remain till the danger of burning is over, when you may replace it When the great heat abates, or the roots of the plants begin to appear through the sides of the hills, then add some fresh, light, rich earth all around them.

About three days after you may lay some more; and in two or three days after that you may earth the bed all over to the full thickness. But before you lay the fresh earth to the sides of the hills, let it be first laid a few hourg, or for one night in the frame, up towards the sides, that it may acquire an equal degree of warmth with that in the bed; then, being applied as above, it will not be in danger of chilling the roots of the plants. The next particular care is that of lining the hot-bed when the heat declines; therefore, when the heat of the bed begins to decrease much. let a lining of the best hot dune be applied in due time to the back or front of the bed, or to both if the heat is very much declined. The dung for this purpose should be prepared in the some manner 2s that for making the bed. Remember, that if there was a lining of dry litter laid around the sides of the bed to defend it from wet, &ic., as before dirceted, this must first be removed before you apply the lining; then line the sides of the bed about from twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches wide, according as the heat is loss or more declined, which should be raised about four or five inches Ligher than the dung of the bed, to allow for settling.

Lay some earth on the top of the lining to keep the rank steam of the fresh dung from coming up that way, which, if it did, would be apt to enter the frame at the place where the lights are raised to admit air, and prove of bad consequence to the plants.

age and lettuce seed; the spinnge will come in after the radish, and the lettuce after the spinage. The radishes sown last month must be carefully protected by So in thomas at re head of mr ocean a bor with ots, In order to hare radishes tolerably early or to succeed those sown in January, let some of the early kinds above mentioned be now sowed on a slight hot-bed, as directed in page 30; and treated as there advised, or you may sow them on such beds under cover of oiled paper frames or of mats; but radishes are not apt to root well under covering of mats, especially when necessity requires them to be kopt on for any considerable length of time, unless you are ex tremely careful to give them as much air and light at every opportunity as possible consistent with their safety.

With respect to the goneral culture of the kitchen garden, it con- Bista principally in a general annual digging, proper manuring, sowing and planting the crops properly, pricking out, planting, and transplanting various particular crops, keeping the ground clean from reeds, and watering the crops occasionally in summer. As to digging, a general digging must be performed aunually in minter or spring, for the reception of the principal crops; al80 as often as any new crops are to be sown or planted at any season of the year, remarking that the general digging for the reception of the main crops of principal esculents in spring, I should adviso to be performed by trenching either one or two spades deep, besides the paring at top, though except for some deep rooting plants, as carrots, pars, doe good spade deep may be sufficient for commot trenching, unless on particular occasions, to trench as deep as the rood soil admits, to turn the exhausted earth to the bottom and the fresh to the top to rener the soil. However, you should be careful not to trench deeper than the proper soil; and the trenching only one spade deep, will much more effectually renow the soil than plain ГEв.] digging; and by paring the top of each trenching two or tbree inches deep into the bottom, all seeds of weeds on the surface are thereby buried so deep that they cannot grow; and I should likewise advise that the general digging be performed principally, especially in stiff ground, before the setting in of the winter frosts, or early in spring; but it would be better it done some considerable time before the season for putting in the crops, that the ground might have the advantago of fallow, to meliorate and enrich it, and always let the ground be trenched in rough ridges, that it may receive all possible benefit from the sun, air, rains, frosts, &c., to fertilize and pulverize the soil before it is levelled down for the reception of seeds and plants; and this levelling down will be an additional improvement in breaking, dividing, and meliorating the earth.

Plin digging, bowever, may be sufficient for most of the slight crops, especially in summer or autumn, after the ground has been trench-digged in the general winter or spring digging. As to manure-any kind of dung, or compost of dung and earth, is proper; and if this could be suited to the nature of the soil, it would be of grenter advantage, that is, for ground of a strong, beavy, cold nature, have for manure a compost of well-rotted dung, asues, or any gandy earths; and if light sandy ground, have the moistest sort of dung and heavy earths; though any kind of well-rotted dung will suit as proper manure for almost every soil, but none better than the dung of old hot-beds, which is the most common manure in kitchen gardens, being borse-stable dung, first used in hot-beds, where it becomes rotted. to a soft, moist temperament of an extremely enriching quality, and suits almost all kinds of soil and plants, or some of the same quality from dung-bills is equally eligible; but well-rotted neat's dung is ulso very good, particularly for light grounds; or a compost of different kinds, as horse dung, neat's dung, hog's dung, farm-yard dung or mulch, ashes, lime-rubbish broken small, sawdust, rotten tan, having all lain together till tell rotted, will malse excel. lent compost manure.

The manuring or dunging the ground may be necessary every year or two; for all crops being of an exhausting nature in every soil, the vegetativo vigor of the soils must be supported accordingly by a proper application of manure; but once every two or three years, at farthest, the ground in general will want amendment; though, where there is plenty of dung, give it as far as it will go every year, especially for the principal crops, such as onions, cauliflowers, cabbages, &c., for as the different crops exhaust the soil, the addition of dung fertilizes and renews it, which when duly applied in proper quantities, the various crops will not only be much finer, but arrive to carlier perfection than in poor starved ground.

But for some particular crops, ground which has been well manured the year before, will be more eligible than if immediately fresh dunged the same year; such as for some of the long fusiform-rooted kinds, as carrots and parsneps, &c., unless the dung is perfectly rotted, * When the good soil is less than two feet deep, the under base, or inferior portion, my be loosened and left in the bottom. 1711) T: 0: 4:: - F2:000 20 0. 21 LaT- 1005

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digging; and by puring the top of each trenching two or three inches into the bottom, all soods of weeds on the urface are thereby Buried so deep thet they count grow; and I should likemise advise thet the generl diging be performed principally; esperiolly in stit ground, before the setting in of the winter frosts, or early in spring; But it would be better it done Home considereble time before the seeson for patting in the crops, that the ground might have the adventuge of felor, to meliorte tud enricb it and always let the ground he bonebed in couch ridges, thet it may reecimell possible boneft from the son, eir coins, frosts, dr, to fertiline and pelverine the soil before it is levelied down do the reconsion of seeds and plants iac, and mecoming the emerh.

Phin digging: horever, sufficient dor most of the slight econs, espercis in stomober or Strom. the the poond hes been trongh-digged in the goners? micee or spring dissing. 1s to rocer-it kind of dong s connect of cons end esth is posers tod 12 lis could be mited to the nette of the pol, a she pace mone bois for pound or e eurong. beet::83 the tracteet li Seein riching que is the art torton toge de no, being borsee ing, Bread de Her is hey soft, moise toppe.. Art d = almost al Linkeen. leb rubbish lantee see! ell rotter. wa. e in crite ding) bree mugh, rhetor the kitchen ground, separating it also from the other with mesmenial walks and benders, having a broad border all round, and sexi thes a walk from five or six to eight feet wide, carried all round the pantin, in away trough the middie; and next the walks have a border of fear o he tasis or seven feet wide, carried round the quarters or priest disions, which border, if raised a little sloping, from the me to the hack port, will appear better than if quite flat; planting mangy if espalier fruit-taves along towards the back edge of the Bender, to as immediately to surround the quarters, allotting the outsiles et the boniers for small esenlents or flowers, and small flowerg shruns haig the cages planted with box, dfe., or some with Starters and other cdging plants, and the walks neatly laid with gravel or other materials before mentioned; the inside, within the espalies, to be the kitchen ground, dividing it, if thought necessary, by roused posaberry, currant, and raspberry plants.

Hat when nerosary to have the whole space of the kitehen gar den cuplered for real use, no ground should be lost in ornamental healers and walks: have a border all around the boundary fence, five er sis five wide, except the south borders, which should be seven or eight feet boad, because of their great us for raising early crops; and have a walk around the ganden, not more than a pard to five or Nis for wide, allewing the same width for the middlo walks, or soas o adhat of waceltarrows passing to bring in the manure, do., and may either bate a four feet wide bonler all around each quarter nes! the walks, it not, as you shall think proper; laying the walke neatly with any, gravelly materials, or with coal ashes, do., so no to have dry walking and wheeling with a borror in all weathers.

With regard to the graeral cultune of the kitchen garden, it ronsita grin pally in a gental ammad dissing proper mmuring, sore isand planting the crop properly, pricking out, panting, and transpanting varies particular cope, deeping the govund clean fhem weats, and watering the crogs wasionally in summer. 1a i cap a general digging must be performed ammally in pared tea outs in spring I shall pivie to to By trenching either ene or twe spudes seep, besides the trebing antic parkralar arcinions, to trench os seep as the pot soul adteila, to turn the exhausted earth to the bottom and the to te ibe top to nuew the seit. Honeses ya should by carel not to truck despor that the pager soit; and the tahing ou! que spade deep, will much were offvteally renew the suit than plai: FrI.] digging; nnd by paring the topof each trenching two or three inches deep into the bottom, all seeds of weeds on the rurfaco are thereby buried so deep that they emot grow;" and I should Ikewise advise hat the general digging be performed principally, especially in stift ground, beforo the setting in of the winter frosts, or early in spring; but it would be better if dono some considernble time beforo the sogthe sun, air, rains, frosts, de., to fertilize and pulverize the soil beforo it is levelled down for the reception of seeds and plants; and this levelling down will be an additionnl improvoment in broaking, dividing, and molorating the earth. Plin digging, howevor, may sufficient for mest of the slight crops, especially in summer or autumn, after the ground hny been trench-digged in the general winter or spring digging.

In to manuro-any kind of dung, or compost of dung and earth s proper: ond if this could be suited to the naturo of the soil, i would be of greater advantage, that 1s, for ground of a strong, heavy. cold nature, have for manure a compost of well-rotted dung, asbes or any sandy carths; and if light saudy ground, have the moistest sort of dung and henry earths; though any kind of woll-rotted dung vill suit as proper manure for almost every soil, but none better that ho dung of old hot-beds, which is the most common manure in kitchen gardens, being horso-stablo dung, first used in hot-beds, where it becomes rotted to n soft, moist temperament of an extremely enriching quality, and suits almost all kinds of soil and plants, or some of the same quality from dung bills is equally eligible; but well-rotted neat's dung is also very good, particularly for light grounds; or a compost of differcut kinds, as horse dung, neat's dung, hog's dung, farm-yard dung or mulch, ashes, lime-rubbish broken small, sawdust rotten tan, having all laiu together till tell rotted, will make caccl. lent compost manure The manuring or dunging the ground may be necessary every Jeal or two; for all crops being of an exhausting nature in every coil, th vegetative vigor of the soils must be supported accordingly by a proper application of manure; but once evory two or three years, at farthest, the ground in goneral will maut amendment; though, where there is plenty of dung. give it as for as it will go every year, especially for the principal crops, such ns onions, caulitiowers, cabbages, de., foras the different crops exhaust the soil, the addition of dung fertilizes and rouews it, which when duly applied in proper quantities, he various crops will not only be much finer, but arrive to carlier perfection than in poor starved ground.

But for some partieular crops, ground which has been well wisnured the year before, will be more eligible than if immediately fresh dunged the same year; such as for aome of the long fusiform-rooted Linds, as carrots and pursues, &e., unless the dong it perfectly rotted, * When the good soil is less than two feet deep, the under base, or in otoz portion, any be loosened and left in the betton. mellow and mouldy, that these long roots can readily make their way young descending radicle, and occasion the main root to fork or grow crooked, more especially the carrots, which also in some fresh-dunged ground are sometimes apt to canker. All manuring should generally be performed in winter or spring, to be dug in at the general annual digging, taking opportunity of frosty or very dry weather to wheel in the dung for the principal maauring, as it may then be performed more easy and clean without logging or spoiling the walks, or tearing up the ground laying it in beaps by barrowfuls at equal distances: niterwards spread it evenly and dig it in one spade deep or more.

In regard to cropping the ground, the proper situation for, and of raising the different plants, is fully explained in the dif Terent months under their respective heads; I will therefore only hint here, that it is eligible to allot the driest, warmest, and most sunny Bituation for the early crops, and the other parts for the main crops. The south borders are proper for raising the earliest plants, as early peas, beans, radishes, spinage, lettuce, carrots, small salad-herbs, kidney-beans, &c.; the east and west borders for succession of early crops, and the north borders, which, being shady and cool, serve for raising and pricking out many small plants, slips and cuttings in summer; though all these borders, in every exposure, may be made useful at all seasons. The borders next the espaliers are proper tor crops of small plants at all seasons of the year, as lettuce, endive, spinage, small salad-herbs, strawberries, and several others, both to stand and for transplantation, according to the mode of culture of the different sorts; and by keeping all the borders constantly well furnished with various esculents, disposed according to their different growths, they, besides their usefulness, effect a delightiul variety In the internal parts, called the quarters, should always be raised the larger principal crops, such as cabbages, cauliflowere, broccoli, coleworts, peas, beans, kidney-beans, onions, leeks, carrots, parsneps, beets, potatoes, turnips, artichokes, celery, general crops of lettuce, spinage, horse-radish, &c. • As many of this esculent plants succeed best in rows, such as peas, beans, cauliflowers, and all the cabbage kinds, transplantod lettuces, endive, potatocs, artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, celery, and some others, particular regard is requisite that the rows are at proper digtances for the plants to have full scope to grow, and would advise that all the tall-growing sorts, sown in drills, such as peas, beans, kidneybeans, do., for early crops, have their rows ranging north and south, il possible, that the sun may shine on each side of the rows more efiectually, as well as on the ground between the rows; both of which are of more advantage to early crops than may be gencrally imagined; for when the rows range cast and west, one row shades another, sc that then the plants grow up, they cannot all receive an equal beneft of the sun.• The great art in cropping a kitchen garden, is to make the most of every part of the ground where necessary, by having each quarter well occupied with as many crops annually a possible practised by the experienced market gardeners and others, who have occasion to cultivate the whole kitchen ground to every possible advantage, often having two or three different crops advancing in successive order together on the same compartment, especially where the principal crops are in wide rows, as in caulifowers, cabbages, beans, &e.

Other kinds are frequently inter-cropped, at proper periods, those of peculiar growth in the respective sorts; not to impede each other nor the principal crops above intimated. Sometimes slight crops of quick growth are sown to come off soon, or by the time the others begin to advance considerably; or sometimes, in the advanced state of the main crops, they are inter-cropped with others of a more continuing and larger growth to be coming forward, ready, as the others are going off; fully occupying the same spot in a succession of crops in some advanced growth, whereby both time and ground are occasionally gained, though, where there is a plentiful scope of kitchen ground, especially in private gardens, any considerable intercropping would be unnecessary, as generally each sort raised separately will, in some degree, be superior; however, on the other hand, as in many places the kitchen ground is much limited, it is incumbent on the occupier or cultivator to inter-crop occasionally where it can be done with a good prospect of success, agreeably to the above intimations.

With regard to the different methods of sowing and planting the different crops, these shall be designated in the course of the work. Destroying weeds is a most necessary culture in the kitchen garden, which must be verý particularly attended to; for the success of the crops greatly depends thereon, and without a full determination to keep them clean, it is in vain to sow or plant any. The utmost attention is necessary never to suffer weeds to perfect their seeds in any part, whether in cropped or vacant quarters, or on dung-hills or compost heaps, as they would lay the foundation of several year' trouble to extirpate them; for, ns in digging and hoeing the ground, some of the seed would be buried near the surface, and others much deeper, at every time of stirring the earth, a fresh crop of weeds would arise from the same stock of seeds, which verifies the saying, " One year's seeding makes seven years' weeding."

1s got go to ade time be to fore coal is seabor, a bar as possible in a state of forwardness, in order to ease the great press of business which will naturally come on next month

mothod of making the seed hot-bed, sowing the seed, and the general a directed under the head Cucun

sary beat which these plants require at this inclement season; and, besides, if the beds were made of a more shallow depth their nould be soon spent, and lining could not be applied to them with so much advantage: for the latior reason particularly, they must be made wholly above ground. The bed being finished, put on the frame or frame and lights, which will defend it from wet, and bring up the beat the sooner, tilting the upper ends of the lights a little that the steam may pass In a week after the bed is made, if it has settled unequally, take off the frame and make the bed lovel, then immediately put it on again for good. After this let the state of the bed be daily examined with good attention; and when you find the violent heat is over, lay in the eartb, but be sure to let that first pass away.

The earth for this purpose should be rich and tolerably dry; for that is a material article to be regarded at this season. The earth proper for cucumbers may be either any prepared compost of rich loam and rotten dung, or of the temperature of light rich kitchengarden oil; but to prepare for this you ought, about the latter end of September, or in October (if the most convenient), to take from some quarter of the kitchen-garden, which is naturally light and dry, and well enriched by manure, a sufficient quantity of earth, and throw it up in a beap ridge-ways, in some dry place, open to the sun and air; mixing therewith at the same time some good rotten dung, breaking and blending the whole well together; a due quantity of this compost-heap should be carried into some shed or other sheltered place, open in front to the sun or free air, a month or a fortnight at least before you want it, that it may be preserved perfectly dry for earthing the bed.

Then, when the bed is in order, lay about half a bushel or rather more of earth under the middle of each light, rising each parcel of earth in a round hillock about ten inches high; let the spaces between the bills and quite to the sides of the frame be covered with the same sort of earth, only two or three inches thick at this time while the bed is in strong heat for fear of burning, as explained below; but which, when the heat is become moderate, is by degrees to be augmented till raised as high as the top of the bills, as hereafter directed. 1he reason for laying the earth in little hills, and not earthing the bed fully at once, is by way of precaution in case of violent afterbeat, in which case it will more readily pass off in steam between the hills; and likewise, because we may venture to use the bed some days sooner than if it was earthed all over at once to the full thickness; for if the bed should burn after the plants are in, you can more readily prevent the earth and also the roots of the plants from being burnt thereby, by drawing the earth away from around the bottom of the bills if it burns, and supplying the places with more fresh mould.

As soon as the bed is earthed as above, put on the glasses, and by the next day the billocks of earth will be warm: if they are, level the top of each a little, so that they may be about eight or nine inches deep; then proceed to put in the plants, the cucumbers, aud melons separately, in different hot-beds, or distinct frames, do. Previous to this observe, that as having last month directed plants to be pricked into small pots, three in each separately, and as they are now to be turned out of these pots with the balls of earth entire, and planted, one pot of plants in each of the above bills, 1 Tould intimate, in this final transplanting, that two of the best cucumer plants and only one melon, would be suflicient to remain, cutting he others away as soon after planting as you are able to distinguish which are most likely to do well; however, it is advisable, previously to transplanting, that, in order to have the whole ball of earth adhere closely about the roots, to give tue pots some water the day before; and the method of planting is this: having some pots of the strongest plants ready, place your hand on the surface of the pot, taking the stems of the plants carefully between your fingers, then turn the mouth of the pot downwards, and strike the edge gently on the frame, the plants with the ball of earth to their roots will come out entire; then making a hole in the middle of each bill of earth, place one pot of plants with the ball entire in each hole, closing the earth well around it, and about an inch over the top, bringing the earth close around the stems of the plants; this done, shut down all the lights close for the present, till the steam rises again strong, then they must remain for fruiting, you must be careful to give them fresh uir every day, by raising the glasses a little for its admission, and for the great steam to pass off; and it is necessary to cover the lights every night with mats, putting them on about half an hour before the time of sunsetting, or a little earlier or later as the weather happens to be either mild or severe, and uncover them in the morning as soon after the sun begins to shine on them, or after sun-rising, as the state of the weather will permit: in covering up, observe, that while the bed is very hot, and the steam copiously rising, never to let the ends of the mats bang down over the dung outside of the frame, which rould draw up a burtful steam, and stifle the plants. •

The young plants, both cucumbers and melons, should be stopped or topped, if not done before, at the first joint, by pruning off the • top of the first runner-bud, which is necessary to promote a stocky rowth, and cause them to put forth lateral shoots at the first and second joints to form fruitful runners, and from these others of the. same nature will be produced. This operation should be performed when the plants have two rough leaves, and when the second is about an inch broad, the first runner-bud rising at its base. The sooner this is detached the sooner the plants acquire strength and put out fruitful runners. You will see arising. in the centre of the plant, at the bottom of the gecond rough leaf, the end of the first runner, like a small bud, which bad or runner, being the advancing top of the plant. is now to be taken off close, and may be done either with the point of a penknife or small scissors, or pinched off carefully with the finger and thumb; but, whichever way you take it off, be careful not to go so closa as to wound the joint from whence it proceeds.

Having thug pruned or stopped the plants at the first joint, they Till by that means very quickly get strength, as will plainly appear in a few days, and, in about a week or ten or twelve days after being thus treated, will each begin to send forth two or three runners, which runners will probably show fruit at their first, second, or third joints; for, if the main or first runner was not to be stopped as above, it would perhaps run half a yard or to feet in length, without putting out more runners to fill the frame, or probabls witbout showing a single fruit-for it is upon these lateral shoots or runners, produced after stopping the plants, that you may expect fruit to appear in any tolerable time in the season.

But let it be also observed that when the said lateral shoots have three joints, and that if any of them do not then show fruit at either of those, it will be proper to pinch off the top of such boots ut the third joint, which vill promote their putting forth a supply of two or three new shoots, some or all of which will most likely be fruitful: and after this. according as they advance in growth, train the runners along in regular order, cut out casual very weakly vines, and thin obers where very irregularly crowded. Thus, if the bed is well managed and the are forward,, those of the cucumbers will probably produce proper sized fruit at the end of this month or beginning or middle of the nest, but the melons not so soou by six or eight weeks. (See next month.)

As there may be many persous who did not begin last month to sow cucumbers for an early crop, it will here be proper to take notice that the beginning, middle, or any time of this month is still a good time to begin that work, making a hot-bed for sowing the seed as directed in January, pages 21 and 22. Thoso rhich are sown early in this month, will, with good management, produce fruit in the end of March, or beginning of April; and thoso sown in the middle or latter end of the mouth will hare fruit in the end of April, and will bear plentifully in May. I'he begining of this month is a very good time to sow melons for a full crop in the frames.

The seed hot-bed which is to be made now, either for cucumbers or melons, must be of the same dimensions; and the seeds sown, and plants managed as directed last month. But obserre, that to be well supplied with cucumber or melon plants, either to plant in new beds, or to have a reserve in caso of ccidents bappening to any already planted out, it will be very prope o sow some seeds at three different times this month These may be sown in such cucumber hot-beds as are already made and in cultivation, and when fit to prick out, plant them in pots as directed last month, which may be plunged in the back part of the same bed, where they may be kept till wanted, either for new, or to supply any deficiency in the present beds.

Hot-beds for forcing early asparagus may be made any time this mouth, for which purpose you must be provided with proper plants; these are previously raised in the natural ground from seed, as hereafter directed, which being transplanted from the seed-bed into others duly prepared for their reception, and having two or three years' growth there, they then are of the proper size and strength for But observe that in those parts of the Union where the ground ia subject at this season to be bound up by frost, previous precaution will be necessary, in order to secure a supply of plants when wanted for this purposo; therefore, before the setting in of the severe winter frost, cover a sufficient number in the beds wherein they are growing, with as much dry litter or leaves of trees, &c., 28 will effectually keep the ground from being frozen, so that you can remove it, and take up the plants conveniently when wanted.

Or you may, on the approach of severe frosts, take up a sufficient quantity, with as little injury to the roots as possible, which may be planted in sand or dry earth in a warm cellar, in the same manner as directed for planting them in the frame, covering their crowns about an inch, observing not to crowd the plants for fear of their becoming mouldy; and in mild weather ventilate the cellar as often as possible, to prevent any bad eflect to the roots from stagnant air; but when it can be done, it will be much better to take up the plants out of their beds aecording as you want them. The necessary quantity for a three-light frame is from three to four hundred plants, and so in proportion for any number of frames; the plants in such beds ought to be set very close, in order that bu having can possible in each frame, they may produce a proportionable supply to recompense sufficiently for the trouble and expense of forcing them.

A bed for this purpose is to be made in like manner as those directed for cucumbers in pages 21 and 22, but very substantial; then put on the frame, and earth it all over six or seven inches deep, for the immediato reception of the plants. The bed being made and earthed as above, and a sufficient quantity of plants in readiness, proceed to planting by raising at one end a small ridge of earth about three or four inchos high, against which place a row of plants close to one another, drawing some earth to the bottom of the roots, then place others against these in the same manner, and so continue until the frame is full, all having their tops or crowns upright and of an equal level. When the whole bed is thus planted, cover the crowns of the roots all over with light, rich earth, about two inches deep, which concludes the work for the present.

You may now put on the lights, which are to be kept open, raised high behind, or slided down every day, except in very severe weather, but at night let them be closed; give all the air possible so that you do not suffer the earth in the bed to be frozen or chilled, by rain or now, till the buds begin to appear, when you are to another covering of three or four inches of the same kind of noem as before, so that the crowns may be covered in the whole about six inches deep. But it must be remarked that for the first week or fortnight after the bed is made and the asparagus planted, that the state of its varmth should be every day carefully examined; for that purpos brust two or three sharp pointed sticks down botwixt the roots int the dung in different parts of the bed; when upon drawing up the

sticks once or twice a day, and feeling the lower ends, you can readily judge of the degree of beat, which, it found very violent, threatening to burn the earth and scorch the roots of the plants, it must be moderated by boring with a long, thick stake several wide holes in the dung on each side of the bed, also in the earth just under the roots, to admit the air, and to let the rank steam and burning quality of the dung pass off more freely; but when the hoat is become moderate, the boles must be closed again. Likerise observe when the beat is on the decline, it will be very proper to lay a quantity of dry long litter round the sides of the bed, hich will preserve a fine kindly growing beat, and will defend the bed from being chilled by heavy rains, snow, dic.

In the next place, when you fnd the leat of the bed beginning to decline considerably, you should prepare to rener it as soon as possible, which is to be done by applying a lining of hot dung to the sides, as for cucumber and melon beds. Fresh air must be admitted in fine weather daily, especially if the heat of the bed is strong hen the buds begin to appear through this last corering of earth; for fresh air is necessary both to give them color and present their drawing up too fast and weak; therefore in fine sunny days, either tilt the upper ends of the lights an inch or two, or shove them a little down, as may be convenient; but keep them close in cold or very bad weather, and always at night.

Continue to cover the glasses every night, especially after the plants appear, with mats or straw. The bed, if made and managed as abovo directed, will begin to about three meeks. The metliod of gathering the asparagus in hot-beds is to thrust your finger down gently into the earth, and break the buds off close to the roots; but the cutting them with a knife, as practised in the natural ground would, by reason of the buds coming up so very thick, destroy as many or more than you gather. When it is intended to have a constant supply of asparagus in the winter and spring ecasons, till that in the natural ground comes in, you should make a new hot-bed every three weeks or a month.

A quantity of fresh plants must also be procured for every ner ed: for those which have been forced in a hot-bed, are not fit for any use afterwards, either in the natural ground or elsewhere. sow some seed every year in a bed of rich earth, as When designed to raise asparagus plants for forcints directed in March; obeerving when the plants are one year old, to transplant them into an open compartment, in rows, nine inches asunder, and about the same distance between the rows. When they have two or three summers' growth, they are then fit to take up for forcing; but if they stand three years before you take them up they will produce much larger buds.

It is necessary to have three different pieces of ground always employed at the same time with asparagus plants for the above purpose; that is, one for the seed-bed with seedling plants, which should never stand longer than one year before transplanted; the other two pieces to be occupied with transplanted plants; one to be a year's growth rom the time of planting before the other, by which method of sow. ing a quantity of plants every spring, you will, after the firgt three obtain a fresh supply of proper plants every year of eligible age and growth, as above, for forcing. in those States where there is not severe frost to be encountered at this season, asparagus may be forced as directed above, without the assistance of a frame and lights; but in lieu thercof you must arch the bed over with hoops, and protect it from heary rains and cold with bass mats or other convenient covering, laid over these hoops; and the earth on the beds must be contined, either with a shallow rame or with straw bands or ropes, three or four inches in diameter ixed down neatly along the edge of the bed, with sharp pointed wooden pegs.

Take care that the mushroom beds are still well defended from heavy rains and frost, both of which would destroy the spawn. The covering of straw should not be less than fourteen or sixteen inches thick on every part of the bed; and at this season it would be proper to continue some large garden mats spread over the straw covering, to secure the bed more effectually from wet and cold; and obscrving, that if the wet at any time has penetrated quite through any part of the covering, the wet straw should be removed, and replaced with some that is clean and dry. If these beds are made under open sueds constructed for that purpose, it will be a great advantage, particularly in protecting them from too much met, which is tery injurious to them, especially during the winter season.

New mushroom beds may now be made where wanted; for the particular method, see October.

or any time this month, make a hot-bed for raising them: let this be made, as directed for cucumbers, to the heirht of three foet, and long enough for one or more frames, which, with their fed and cover the mediately: when the heat is come up, level the lung seven or eirht inches deep with rich light earth, then draw rills from the back to the front a foot asunder, and an inch deep: drop the beans therein two or three inches apart, and smooth over the surface of the bed. Ur you may sow the beans thick in a small hot-bed, or in pots therein to raise the plants about an inch in them into a large hot-bed as abovo, to yield theorta, factransplant The best sorts for this purpose are the early cream-colored dwarfs, early speckled, white and yellow dwarfs; because these kinds are of an early nature, and do not run so strong or rampant as the other Borts.

When the plants begin to appear, raise the lights a little behind every mild day, to admit fresh air to strongthen their growth: give also occasional gentle waterings, continue the same care in their advancing state, and support a proper heat in the bed; they will thus afford an early produce in April, dc. But where there is a hot-house you may raise early kidney or French beans, generally with much less trouble and more certain succese than in hot-beds, as above.

Continue to raise in hot-beds a regular supply of small salading, such as cresses, mustard, rape, radishes, lettuce, &c., as directed in January, pages 28 and 29, which must be sown every eight or ten days, in order to afford a proper succession; for at this season such are more acceptable, and to many persons more palatable, than at any other period of the year. Towards the latter end of the month, in the middle States, and in all parts to the southward, you may begin to sow lettuce, and the other diffcrent kinds of small salading on warm well sheltered south borders, especially if the great inter frosts hare passed away. For this purpose dig the ground neatly, giving it an advantageous slope towards the sun, rake the surface finc, and draw sallow drills from north to south about three or four inches distant; sow the seeds therein, each sort separate, very thick, and earth them over not more than a quarter of an inch deep. If the scason proves favorable, you may expect tolerable success; but the more certain way would be to cover these beds with frames and glasses, which would not only forward them to perfection at an earlier period, but also protect them from the various accidents incident to such early crops in unfavorable seasons.

When these plants, both under cover and in the open ground, begin to come up, they sometimes, by rising very thick, raise the their growth; they may be assisted by whisking the surface lightly with your hands, &c., to separate the earth, after which, the plant vill rise regularly. vil ho chog boar frost, and hisp to be a nd hy mild day, attacker the sun rises full upon them you water them with fresh pump or well water poured out of a watering-pot, with the head on, to wash off the frosty rime, it will prevent their turning black and going off.

The beginning of this month plant your autumn sown cauliflowers where stone cannot conveniently be had wood will answer by being regularly lined with fresh dung, as directed in page 25. Stone pits • FEв.]

are generally made larger than wood, say twenty-four fcet long (which will require six sashes, each four feet wide by fire feet ton inches long, six feet deep at the back, and four feet six inches in front; to be about two feet ten inches below the surface; the wall to be from one foot to eighteen inches thick. In these frames you can raise any kind of vegetables that are wanted early; or small flowers, such as carnations, stock-gilly, wall flowers, mignonette, heliotrope, nerembergias, paonies, or any low growing plants that you wish to bloom at an early season. By placing the pots at the back side, they vill not interfere with cauliflowers, melons, or any other plants raised in a hot-bed, while they are small. In making the hot-bed, observe the directions in January, page 21, cacept that by having the bed below the surlace you can use a toot or eigateen inches of old leave: or tan in the bottom; and then finish off as directed for cucumber and melons. Plant the cauliflowers about two feet distant every way; and between the cauliflorers you may plant lettuce and sow radish or turnip seed; white turnip is the best for this purpose: these will be used before the cauliflowers bloom.

It will be necessary to look over the cauliflowers to see if any show flowers before they attain their proper size, in which case, pull them up and plant others in their place. Those early autumnal sown plants which you have in frames, and that you are endeavoring to protect with a covering of boards and mats, dc., without the assistance of glass, should never have powerful sunshine admitted to them while in a frozen state; for its sudden action upon these tender plants, whilst in that condition, would prove their total destruction; therefore admit it only at intervals, when weak, until the plants and ground around them are completely thawed The cauliflower plants which were raised from seed sown last month, should, as soon in this as they may arrive at a sufficient size, which is about four or five inches, be transplanted into a new moderate hot-bed, which will greatly strengthen and forward their growth.

Make the bed two feet and a half high and put a frame on, lay on six inches deep of rich earth, when this is warm prick the plants therein two or three inches apart, and give them a little water; as weather. Plants thus treated will become strong and well rooted, bear transplanting much better than if left in the seed-bed, and produce larger and better heads; for, by transplanting, the tap-roots are cheoked, and the plants push a number of lateral roots, which afford then nourishment and strength; they become short-stemmed and stout and consequently more fit for a final and successful transplantation than if suffered to remain in the seed-bed.

Were these to be transplanted again, early in March, into another bed, it would be an additional advantage; it is by the neglect of this necessary treatment that we have so few good flowers, for the plants, when continued in the seed-bed till finally transplanted, become long and spindling, tender and unfurnished with roots or fibres; when [TEB. planted out, for want of a sufficicney of roots, they are not able immediately to extract the necessary supply of nourishment from the earth, consequently become stunted, and either button, or grow go miserably as never to produce a good head. When transplanted and furnished as above, and the proper season arrives for planting them out in the open ground, they are to be taken up separately with a hollow trowel or transplanter, preserving is much earth as possible about the roots of each plant, and depositec where they are to flower; thus treated they will scarcely be seusible of the removal, will continue in a constant and regular state of regetation, and it protected tor a few days with garden pots or other suit ablo coverings from too powerful a sun, and regularly at night, for ten or trelve days after planting, you may reasonably expect the As it is from these early sowings that the greatest succoss may be expected in the United States, every care should be taken to promoto their early growth and strength, in order that they may arrive at due perfection before the commencement of the severe summer heat, which is found so injurious to all late cauliflowers.

Continue to given due quantity of air to your cauliflower, plants at all favorable opportunities; for, as obsorred in Janmary, it is an extremely essential article.

or, if for cabbaging or beading, you may sow the whito Silicia, grand admiral, large Mogul, brown Dutch, or Malta cabbage lettuces, For this purpose they must be be transplanted in rows into the different borders, &c., as directed in March, leaving a sutticient quantity to occupy the seed-bed, which will head earlier than those that shall have been transplanted. If these be covered at night and in very unfavorable weather, either with mats or boards, &c., it will greatly forward their growth. But in order to have a few in a more advanced state for transplanting, and also for early small salading, you may sow any of the above kinds in a hot-bed, those for the latter purpose very thick, and for the former pretty thin.

Tue cos lettuces, not growing flat or in should, about the end of this month, be thinned to about nine inches, or, if expected to grow very large, a foot asunder. The plants which are drawn out may be planted into other frames, or into warm lers where they can be well protected with mats or some suitable covering, till they are inured by degrees to bear the open air; but if the weather is unfavorablo and Jou have not a sufficiency of frames to receive the plants, it will be better to defer this work till next month, being particular to pick off all decayed leaves, and to stir the earth a little about the roots.

Sor some cauliflower seed in a hot-bed the beginning, middle, or at any time this month, but the earlier the better, to succeed those Sown in January, or in case none were sown at that time; for the method of doing which, see page 29. If you have not the convenience of glass lights, these plants may be raised with good success in paper frames, or, with particular attention, you may succeed with coverings of mats, or boards and

These frames are made either like the corer of a wagon or the roof of a house, and covered with oiled paper instead of glass. They have a frame of wood at the base, to which in the former broad hoops are fastened, bent over circularly. The width of the frame should be near five feet, the length nine or ten; the distance between the hoops not more than a foot, and there should be several rows of strong pack thread or rope yarn running from hoop to hoop all over, distant from each other about eight inches, and other lines crossing and intersect ing these between the hoops or ribs of the frame, which arrangement. of lines are of cascotial sorvice for the more effectual support of the paper when pasted on the frame, and to strongthen it against the power of winds and heavy rains.

The other sort of frame may be made with slips of pino or noat Laths, fastoned to a roof-tree at the top, and to the base-frame at bottom. The panels or lights ought to have hinges alternately at

each side, to open outward for giving air occasionally on the side from the wind, or on both sides if the weather is mild, and also for performing other necessary culture. The paper for this purpose should be of the larger, strong printing or demi kind; which, previously to pasting on the frame, should be moderately damped with water, that it may not sink in hollows after being fixed; as soon as thus prepared, proceed to paste it on, sheet by sheet, using for this purpose the very best kind of paste; and contrive to have whole ones along the ridge-rail above, extending lengthways and across, to join regularly with the sheets below; the inside and to the large sheets over those parts, it will give additional strength against rain and winds.

After the paper is thus pasted on, and perfectly dry, then it must be oiled over with linseed oil, either raw or boiled; the latter, 1 think, is rather apt to harden the paper and cause it to crack, therefore would prefer the former. Having, however, the oil and a painter's soft brush, lay it on lightly, and brush the outside of the paper all over, equally in every part, which done, place the frame in some Iry, covered shed, there to remnin till the whole is thoroughly drs hen it may be used when wanted, and will answer extremely wel for various purposes. If the base-framos are well painted with the following composition they will last a long time.

To every six pounds of melted add half a pint of linseed oil, and a pound of brick dust well pulverized, mis them all together and use them warm. This is the best pigment for all timber exposed to the weather, for no moisture can penctrato through it. You may also form lights of the above kind for your common hotbed frames when glass cannot be conveniently had, which will answer a very good purpose. These covers of oiled paper are used not only for early cauliflower and cabbage plants, but also for early salading, cucumbers, dc., and are excellent for covering cuttings of exotic and other plants, and for various other purposes. Continue to protect your autumn-sown cabbage plants from the severity of the weather, agreeably to the general precautionary directions given in the month of October, which see. ticular that such as are in frames, and consequently undor occasional protection, which renders them still more tender than those protected under the shade of bows, &c., and that have got frozen either in consequent, of not to be exposed to te the ste of so i shining strongly, until they are gradually thared, and also the eart in which they stand; but at intervals, when the rays are not too pow erful, you may admit them to the plants, in order to accomplish this end the sooner; but it must be done with great precaution.

This observation is not only applicable to cabbage and cauliflower plants, but to all other plants under similar circumstances. The cabbage plants which were sown last month, should as soon in this as they have arrived to the height of three or four inches, or their leaves to the size of a quartor dollar, be transplanted into a new hotbed, at the distance of three or four inches, plant from plant, every ray; in order to promote their growth, give them strength, and the better to preparo them for planting out in the open ground, as soon as the season arrives for that purpose. Previous to transplanting citber these or cauliflower plants, see that the earth of the new bed is arrived ata proper degree of warmth, so that the plants when planted therein, may receive no check, but strike out new roots and fibres immediately.

Let them be constantly Kept in a moderato stato of growth, admitting plenty of air to them at every favorablo opportunity; for if neglected in this very essential point, they will grow weakly and slender, and never turn out to good advantage; thorofore, let the air be given as often as it can be done with safety, but cover them carefully every night, and even in the day time, in extromely severe weather.

This is a good time to sow a full crop of cabbage seeds, such as the early Wakefield, early York, early dwarf Battersea, early sugarloaf, &c.; these may be sown in a hot-bed, as directed for cauliflowers, any time this month, but the earlier the better, specially if none were sown in January: these will como to perfection at an early and Towards the latter end of the month, you may sow these kinds on 3 warm south border, to be covered with frames and glasses, or on slight hot-beds made in marm situationg, and covered with paper frames, or with boards and mats occasionally. Oiled paper covers will do extremely well for. this purpose, and may be used to much advantago where glass lights cannot be had.

Sow also some red pickling-cabbage, flat Dutch, large drumhead Saroy, and other lato cabbage seeds to succeed your early summer crops; these will produce larger heads and earlier, than if sown much Many people never think of sowing these late kinds at this time, which is an egregious omission, and ought not to be copied by any person who wishes to have a regular succession, and in the greatest perfection, of this invaluable vegetable. The method of sowing these seeds in hot-beds being so similar to that of cauliflowers, a repetition is unnecessary; therefor see page 20. Always observe to give the plants plenty of air, in order to barden and strengthen them, and to prevent their spindling up it a Teakly manner, more especially if you do not intend to transplant them into another hot-bed before their being finally planted in the open ground.

But notwithstanding all this precaution, you must not omit to keep them constantly in a growing stato, and duly protected from the inclemencies of the weather; and when the beds wherein they are growing become cold and destituto of that warmth so necessary for the above purpose, you must give them a slight lining of fresh horse-dung, to renew the slow temperate heat so congenial and necessary to these plants at this season.

Towards the end of this month, if the weather permits, prepare a small bed of light rich earth in a warm border, to sow some celery seed therein for an early crop; the best kinds to sow are the solid white, and red celery, both of which are excellent. Break the earth very fine, and either sow the seed on the surface; and the surface raked, then with the back of the rake trim the earth evenly off the surface about a quarter of an inch deep into the alley, sow the seed on the bed, and with a spade cast the earth over evenly and rake the surface smooth. Though this seed may not come up for a length of time, there will be no danger of its perishing in the ground, and it will be in a state to receive the first advantage of the growing season: if a frame and lights or hand-glasses can be spared to put over it, they will greatly forward its growth; when raised in this way, though it will not be so early, it will not be so subject either to start to seed or to pipe, as if sown and forced in a hot-bed.

But those who wish to have celery as early as possible, should Bow the seed on a slight hot-bed, and cover it with a frame and lights, or with hand-glasses, or in default of these, cover at night and in bad weather with mats placed on hoops stuck archwise over the beds to support them, being careful in either method, when the plants are come up, to admit the free air every mild day. There should not be many of these early sown plants planted out for a continuing supply, only a few to come in before the general crop, for they will soon pipo and run to seed.

Towards the end of this month, if the weather is mild and the ground open, you may dig a warm border to sow therein some earlyframe, short-top, white and red turnip-rooted radish seeds, to draw for salads in April and early in May. Dig another piece at the same time for salmon-radish, which will succeed the former. Let them generally be sown broad-cast on the surface, either in a continued space, or in four or fire feet wide beds, and rake them in with an even hand; or in sowing large crops in one continued space if quite dry light ground, it is eligible, before raking in, to tread down the seed lightly, then rake it in regularly. You may sow among these crops of radishes, a sprinkling of spin-

Sow some prickly-seeded spinage, it being the hardiest kind, about the latter ond of the month. ground be pared for this purpose, and sow the seed thereon thin and regular either broadcast and raked in or in drills a foot asunder, or on four feet wide beda-being careful that in either case the seed be not covered more than from an inch to half an inch deep, according to the lightness or stiffness of the ground. The smooth-seeded round-leaved kind is the best to sow during the remainder of the spring and early summer months, but for this early sowing, the prickly-sceded being more hardy, is preferablo. * I am well aware that in for the greater part of the eastern States the ground is generally, during the whole of this month and a considerable part of March, so bound up with frost as not to be dug or cultivated; but this not being the case in the middle States, except in very severe seasons, and not in all the southern States, I am induced to give these directions for the sowing of early crops, and where the state of the weather permits they may be practised to advantage, and where not the business must be deferred a little longer.

If the weather be mild and the ground in good condition, you may, about the latter end of this month, sow some lettuce secd on a south border, which ought to be well defended by a wall, hedge, or board The kinds most suitable to be sown at this time are the early curled and common cabbage lettuces, if intended to be cut up for small salading, in which oase they are to be sown very thick on the surface, after the ground has been raked tolerably well, and then raked in; or they may be sown in beds or drills, according to fancy, observing that these ceds require but a very slight covering You may also Bow any other kinds of lettuce, such as the white or green cos, Egyptian and spotted cos, which are excellent kinds; FaB.]

Ven carrots are desired at an early season, some seed may be sown in a slight hot-bed in the beginning or middle of this month. Nake this bed two and a half feet high, put on the frame, and cover he bed with light dry earth six or eight inches deep; soy the seec binly on the surface, and cover it about a quarter of an inch with the same kind of earth. When the plants are up give them plenty of air, and thin them as they advance in growth. Keep the glasses well covered at night, and in extremely severe weather and in April you may expect handsome roots. The early horn is best for this This seed, if sown as above, towards the latter end of the month, will succeed very well without the assistance of glass, if the bed is carefully covered at night, and occasionally, as the weather may happen to be severe, in the daytime, with garden mats, &c. may also about the end of the month sow a small quantity of carrot seed, on a warm border of light, dry, rich earth, and, if the season proves favorable they will succeed tolerably well, and be fit for use at a very acceptable period, for the method of doing which sce

Parsneps being very hardy plants and the seeds remaining in the • round a long time before they vegetate, may be sown as early it his mouth as the ground can be got in a proper condition to receiv not, however, advise to sow more at this time than what may answer for not a sail goptity of beetsood on a warm border in drills for a first crop; but this ought not to be done till about the end of the Observe that secds which are sown in the open ground at this imo, cannot have much advantage, as to earliness, orer those whic nay be sown two weeka later: therefore would advise never to sor seeds till the ground is in a good dry state, and proper condition to receiTe them.

Towards the latter end of this month, prepare a dry and well situated piece of ground for an early crop of peas, the Sangster's early, early trame, and early emporor, are the kinds most suitable for this crop, but more particularly the first, though the others are excellent, and will immediately succeed the early framo. Sow each sort separate, and pretty thick, in rows or drills three feet asunder, covering them not more than about an inch and a half; or if the ground be very loose and light, two inches deep; but if it is of a stiff nature, one inch will be sufficient. But in order to givo the first early crops a greater advantage, prepare a south border of dry light earth for their reception, and raiso the earth into narrow sloping ridges, about a foot broad at the baso, and nine inches high, and at the distance of three foet from each other; ranging these in a southwest direction from the north side of the border; then on the castorly sides of these ridges, about half heir heigat, sow your drills of peas, giving them the same depth of advantage of the morning and mid-day sun, lie dry, and will consequontly advance in vegetation much more rapidly than if sown in the ordinary way.

Where a ferr peas are particularly required in the most early season, they may be obtained by sowing some of the early dwarf kinds in a hot-bed, to remain, or rather to be transplantod from that into another; eithor of which methods should be performed early in this month if neglected in last. Those may be sown in a large hot-bed in rows from the back to the front of the bed, to remain: or it would be rather more eligiblo to sow them thick on a small hot-bed, to be trans lanted into a larger whon about an inch or two high: and if you have any in an advancod state you may now transplant them as above, to remain for bearing. But if you have the convenience of a hothouse or forcing-house of any kind, you may easily and expeditiously 'aise them therein, by either sowing the seeds or planting the plants, if in a state of forwardness, in large pots, and depositing these ir convenient places in those houses.

N. B. A large quantity of the fallen leaves of trees laid around all your hot-beds, as high as the upper parts of the frames, especially those which contain tender plants, will afford them a very necessary protection, by preventing the frost from penetrating through the sides and ends of the frames, and at the same time they will produce a lasting and comforting heat in the beds.

By beans I mean the Vicia Faba of Linnæus, and not the Pha- A full crop of these should be planted as early in this or the next month as it is possible to get them into the ground; for it 1s from the early sown crops of these, that any tolerable produce may be expected in the United States, especially in the middle and southern For this purpose, as soon as the weather will permit, dig an open quarter of good ground, observing that a strong heavy soil is the most suitable, but see that is not too wet when you work it; in which plant a full crop of the early Mazagan, early Lisbon, long-podded, white-blossom, large Windsor, toker, Sandwich, and other kinds: by lanting these different varieties at one time, they will come into earing in regular succession, according to their different degrees of carliness.

You need not be under any apprehension of their being injured by the weather, as they are of a bardy nature, and will got suffer by any frost which may overtake them, except in very extraordinary cases. Plant the small early kinds in drills three feet asunder, and the beans two or three inches distant in the rows, or they may be planted two rows in each drill, four inches distant each way, and covered two inches deep. The large kinds, such as the Windsor, toker, Sandwich and broad row, and somewhat thinner than the small kinds. These may also be planted occasionally by dibble, but drilling is the more expeditious and better way. You may continue planting these kinds once a week till the end of March, but those planted after that season will not be so productive.

These kinds may be forced in like manner as peas if desired; for their further treatment, see following months. •