November 1857

As this is a period in which much may be done towards the laying out and preparing of new kitchen gardens for the ensuing season, &c., I refer you for general instructions on that subject to page 115, &c.

You should now be very attentive to the keeping of your winter spinage free from weeds, and to the thinning of the plants where they stand too close; otherwise they will not be sufficiently stron and frm to endure the severity of the approaching trosts Corn-salad and winter-cresses should be treated as directed for spinage, and for the same reason; but the distance of two or three inches, plant from plant, will be sufficient for these. This should be done early in the month, for it is not prudent either to thin or weed от. fter up illy den hig are ekerby ur he he гв, le sucoulent plants of any kind immediately on the eve of a severe frost, as the sudden exposure of the shaded and tender parts to it would prove very destructive.

Where omitted last month, dress your asparagus beds as directed on page 542. Indeed there is no better season than the frat or second week of this month for that business.

The lettuces which were planted in frames last month, should be still suffered to enjoy the free air every day while the weather continues mild and dry, by taking the glasses entirely off early in the morning; but let them be put on again in the evening, or whenever the weather becomes cold or wet; for if these plants are kept too close, they will draw up and become weakly, tender, and of little value. When the weather is very wet or cold, keep the glasses on, and should the frost set in rather too severe towards the end of the month, you must give the necessary covering, so as to prevent the plants from getting frozen; but be careful to admit air to them at every favorable opportunity.

In the first week of this month, you should plant into the frames if omitted in October, such lettuces as are designed to be wintered therein; this should on no acoount be delayed to a later period. On the approach of severe frost protect your lettuces on warm borders, &c., as directed on page 544. N. B. Lettuces make a most delicious boiled salad, which, in the estimation of most people who have tried it, is much superior to spinage. This observation escaped my recollection while writing the work of the summer months, where it might have been more appropriately inserted; as then, thousanda of heads start to seed and are totally lost, which might be profitably used in this way.

They are generally in an excellent condition for this purpose, at any time from the period of their having attained a sufficient size, till the hearts or contre stems have shot towards seeding six or eight inches high, so that when they are past use for a raw salad, they are yet good for a boiled one.

l galading of every kind will now require to be sova on a slight hot-bed, under the protection of frames and glasses; otherwise disappointment will ensue, especially if the cold sets in early mild weather admit plenty of air, to give strength to the plants.

You may now plant garlic, rocambole, and shallots; the earl in the month that this is done the better. When planted at t season in dry, light, rich ground, the roots will be much larger th if deferred till spring The bulbs of the common garlic, or Alli sativum, grow to a larger size than those of the rocambole, or Alli scorodoprasum, but some people conceive the latter to be of a bet! flavor. The true shallot, or Allium ascalonicum, is considered to posse the most agreeable flavor of any of that genus, and is, consequentl highly deserving of oultivation. For the method of planting each of the above sorts see page 20€ but in planting the bulbs produced on the tops of the garlic and r cambole stalks, observe to cover them only about two inches deep,, they are not. so large or strong as the oloves of the roots.

During the continuance of mild weather, give your cabbage an cauliflower plants every advantage of free air, to inure them by de grees to bear the cold, by taking the glasses off totally, in the warn part of the day; but be attentive to lay them on again at night, an in wet or cold weather. On coldish days, except there is a cutting frosty wind, you may raise the glasses, a little behind for the admis sion of air; however, if & severe frost should set in, in the course o the month, you must cover the beds carefully at night, and at other times when necessary, to protect the plants therefrom. But having given general instructions for the methods of treating cabbage plants on page 536, and cauliflower plants on page 537, I now refer you thereto for further information.

Observe that the cauliflower being much more tender than the cabbage plants, will require more care and covering to protect them from frost; and that either will be. greatly injured by being deprived of light or air longer than their safety or preservation requires.

During the continuance of mild weather, give your cabbage ar cauliflower plants every advantage of free air, to inure them by d grees to bear the cold, by taking the glasses off totally, in the worr part of the day; but be attentive to lay them on again at night, an in wet or co weather. On coldish days, except there is a cutting Irosty wind, you may raise the glasses, a little behind for the admis sion of air; however, if a severe frost should set in, in the course o the month, you must cover the beds carefally at night, and at othe times when necessary, to protect the plants therefrom. But having iven general instructions for the methods of treating cabbage plant. on page 536, and cauliflower plants on page 537, I now refer yot thereto for further information.

Observe that the canliflower being much more tender than the cabbage plants, will require more care and covering to protect them from frost; and that either will be, greatly injured by being deprived of light or air longer than their safety or preservation re quires.

Immediately previous to the setting in of hard frost, take up your cabbages and savoys, observing to do it on a dry day; turn their tops downward, and let them remain so for a few hours to drain off anj water that may be lodged between the leaves; then make ohoice of a ridge of dry earth, in a well sheltered, warm oxposure, and plant having prethem down to their heads theroin, close to one another mediate. viously taken off some of their loose hanging leaves. ereot over them a low temporary shed, of any kind that will keep them perfectly free from wet, which in to be open at both ends to admit a current of air in mild, dry weather. v. ter er y, Nov. J closed with straw when the weather is very severe.

In this situation your oabbages will keep in a high state of preservation till spring for, being kept perfectly frce from wet as well as from the action of the sun, the frost will have little or no effect upon them. In such a place the heads may be cut off as wanted, and, if frozen, soak them in spring, well, or pump water for a few hours previons to their being cooked, which will dissolve the frost and exiract any disagreeable taste occasioned thereby. Some plant their oabbages, after being taken up and drained as above, in airy or well ventilated cellars, in earth or sand up to their heads, where they will keep tolerably well; but in close, warm, or damp cellars they soon decay.

Others make a trench in dry sandy ground, and place the cabbages therein, after being well drained and dry, and most of their outside loose green leaves pulled off, roots upward, the heads contiguous to, but not touching each other; they then cover them with the dryest earth or sand that oan be conveniently procured, and form a ridge of earth over them like the roof of a house: some apply dry straw immediately around the heads; but this is a bad practice, as the straw will soon become damp and mouldy, and will of course communicate the disorder to the cabbages. Upon the whole, the first method is, in my opinion, the most preferable, as there is no way in which cabbages will keep better if preserved from wet; and, besides, they can be conveniently obtained whenever they are wanted for use. the green and brown curled borecole being very hardy, will re quire but little protection; they may now be taken up and planted in a ridge tolerably close together, and during severe frost covered lightly with straw; this will preserve them sufficiently, and during winter the heade may be cut off as they are wanted for use; the stems, if taken up and planted in rows, as early in March as the weather will admit, will produce abundance of the most delicious sprouts.

In the southern States, and even in warm soils and exposures in the middle States, borecole will stand the winter in open beds with out any covering whatever.

Your late cauliflowers and broccoli will now be producing their Leads; therefore it will be necessary to break down some of the largest leaves over the flowers to preserve them from the effects of sun, rain, and frost. Such plants of either sort as are not likely to flower before the commencement of severe frost should be taken up and planted as recommended in the first instance for oabbages, where, if well proecled from wet and frost, they will oontinue to produce fine fowers all winter. or, they may be planted in a dry, warm cellar, in the same man or as directed for cabbages, where they will also flower in winter

You may now plant garlic, rocambole, and shallots; the ear in the month that this is done the better. When planted at t season in dry, light, rich ground, the roots will be much larger t f deferred till spring The bulbs of the common garlic, or Alli sativum, grow to a larger size than those of the rocambole, or Alli scorodoprasum, but some people conceive the latter to be of a bet flavor. The true shallot, or Allium ascalonicum, is considered to poss the most agreeable flavor of any of that genus, and is, consequentl highly deserving of cultivation. For the method of planting each of the above sorts see page 200 but in planting the bulbs produced on the tops of the garlic and r cambole stalks, observe to cover them only about two inches deep,, they are not, so large or strong as the oloves of the roots.

Immediately previous to the setting in of hard frost, take up your cabbages and savoys, observing to do it on a dry day; turn their topa downward, and let them romain so for a few purs to drain off any water that may be lodged between the leaves; then make oboice of a ridge of dry earth, in a well sheltered, warm exposure, and plant thensly can en the some de their close to on are. mediatory. viously taken off some of their loose hanging leaves. even per her tre on met, were is to be open de bot on deep admit a current of air in mild, dry weather. ov. ier an er У, closed with straw when the meather is very govern, In this situation the san, the frost mill bare little or no efficot upon them, place the herds may be cut off as wanted, and, If frozen, monk them in spring, well, or pamp water forn few hour provious to their bing cooked, which will dissolre the frost and oxtraot any dimgrocable taste occasioned thereby.

Some plant their cabbages, after being token up and drained as above, in airy or well ventilated cellara, in orth or mund up to thei heads, there they will keep tolerably all; but in ulus, worm, ene damp cellars they soon decay. loose green leaves palled ofi, roots upward, cho heads contigaos to but not tonching each other; they thon oovor them with the dryes earth or sand that can be conreniently procurca, aud form a ridge sh earth over them like the roof of a house: some apply dry straw im mediately around the heads; but this in a bad practice, in the stray will soon become damp and mouldy, and will of courne cormusicate the disorder to the cabbages Upon the whole, the first method is, in my opinion, the tooet pre terable, as there is no way in which cabbages will kcep better if pre Berred from wet; and, besides, they can be conveniently obtains whenever they are wanted for ase.

The green and brown curled borecole being very hardy, will re quire but little protection; they may now be taken up and plans in a ridge tolerably close together, and during severe frost corery lightly with straw; this will preserve them sufficiently, and daris winter the heade may be cut off as they are wanted fer use; t2e stems, if taken up and planted in rowe, as early in March 23 tee weather will admit, will produce abundance of the most delicicas sprouts. ser Sees and en in warm soils and exposares in the middle States, borecole will stand the minter in open beis miti out any corerin? weing beir te sens ca indeed I have had tolerably good flowers from strong plants hur in a damp, warm cellar.

Previous to the commencement of severe frost you should tak with as little injury as possible, the roots of your turnips, car parsneps, beets, salsafy, scorzonera, Hamburg or large rooted par skirrets, Jerusalem artichokes, turnip-rooted celery, and a suffici of horseradish for the winter consumption; cut off their tops expose the roots for a few hours till sufficiently dry. On the sur of & very dry spot of ground, in a well sheltered situation, l stratum of sand two inches thiok, and on this a layer of root either sort, covering them with another layer of sand (the drier better), and so continue layer about of sand and roots till all are in, giving the whole on every side a roof-like slope; then cover heap or ridge all over with about two inches of sand, over which a good coat of drawn straw up and down, as if thatching a house order to carry off wet, and prevent its entering the roots; ther & wide trench around the heap and cover the straw with the earth dug up to a depth sufficient to preserve the roots effectually fr frost.

An opening may be made on the south side of this heap, completely covered with bundles of straw, so as to have access to i roots at all times when wanted, either for sale or use. Some people lay straw or hay between the layers of roots and i mediately on the top of them; this I do not approve of, as the str or hay will become damp and mouldy, and very often occasion t roots to rot, while the sand would preserve them sweet and sound All these roots may be preserved in like manner in a cellar; k in such a place they are subject to vegetate and become strin earlier in spring. The only advantage of this method is, that in t cellar they may be had, when wanted, more conveniently duri winter, than out of the field or garden heaps..

Note.-All the above roots will preservo bettor in sand than common earth, but when the former cannot be had, the sandiest ear you can procure must be substituted.

continue during the early part of this month to blanch yo elery, endive and cardoons, as directed in the preceding months; b When the severe frosts approach, they must be preserved therefrom either in the following or some other more convenient and effectua manner. livery third row of the celery may be suffered to stand where grow ing, opening. a trench on each side of every standing row, within aid or eight inches thereof, for the reception of the plants of the other two rows, which are to be carefully taken up with as little injury a possible either to their tops or roots, and planted in those nev trenches, in the some order as they formerly stood.

The whole being thus planted, three rows together, they are to be earthed up near the 9 up та. up, cots, ley, ency and face у а s of the laid bis 3. om nd he mut 1e h

ostremities of their leaves, and as soon as the frost becomes pretty keen, in a very dry day cover the whole with straw, and over this a good coat of earth. When this plan is intended, the celery should in the first instance be planted in rows, for winter use as above, the south sid east and west, so that when the whole is covered with straw, &c., may be easily opened, especially if protected a little wanted for use. to take out the plants when Or, if you have the convenience of a deep garden frame, you may almost fll it with fresh sand, and then take up and plant therein, so close as nearly to touch one another, a quantity of your best and Largest celery, and so deep as to be coverod within five or six inches of their tops; place on your glasses immediately, and suffer neither rain nor water to reach the plants, except a very gentle shower, occasionally, in warm weather.

When severe frosts sot in, lay dung, tan, leaves of trees, or other litter around the sides and enda of the frame, and cover the glasses with mats, &c., so as to keep out the frost. By this means you can have celery during winter in the greatest perfection, and as conve. Or, celery may now be taken up when dry, well aired, and planted in sand in a dry cellar, in the same manner as directed for plantin it in the frame; observing, in either case, to lay up the stalks an leaves neat and close, and to do as little injury to either as possible; it does not keep so well, however, as by the above method. The beds of celery which were planted as directed on page 461, should, in the early part of this month, be earthed up to within sis or eight inches of the tops of the plants, and on the approach of hard frost, additionally earthed to the very extremities of their leaves; then lay a covering of dry sandy earth on the top of each bed, the whole lengin, so as to give it a rounding; on this, place a coat of dry straw, drawn and laid on advantageously to cast off the wet, and of a sufficient thickness to effectually resist the frost; after which out a trenoh around the bed to carry off and prevent any lodgement of water.

Hore you can have access to your celery, and it will continue in a high state of preservation during the whole winter and early spring months. Indive may be preserved in a frame, or cellar, as directed for celery, or as recommended on page 541. ardoons may be preserved either in sand in a cellar, or by bank. g up a sufficiency of earth to them where they grow, and covering the tops, &c. with straw or long litter. N. B. All the above work must be performed in dry weathe when the plants are perfecky free from tet, otherwise they wil and very subject to rot.

You should now sow the secds of rhubarb, sea-kale, skirrets, alesanders, dill, and any other kinds of seed that do not vegetate freely if kept out of the ground till spring; sow them as directed in M and be not under the least apprehension of the frost doing them injury.

The mushroom beds must be oarefully protected from wet frost, as directed on page 539, &c.

The winter dressing of artiohokes is an important operation, on it depends much of their future success. This should not given them as long as the weather continues mild, that they r have all the advantage possible of growth, and be gradually inu to the present increasing cold; but it should not be deferred till setting in of hard frost, lest the entire work be prevented thereby In the first place, out all the large leaves close to the grou leaving but the small ones which rise from the hearts of the plan after this, line and mark out a trench in the middle between ea row, from fourteen to sixteen inches wide, presuming that the ro are five feet apart, as directed under the article planting artichok on page 212.

Then lightly dig the surface of the beds from trer to trenoh, burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather the ear round the crowns of the plants to the height of about six inch placing it in gently between the young rising leaves without buryi them entirely under it; this done, dig the trenches one spade dee and cast the earth thereof equally between and on each side th plants, so as to level the ridges, giving them at the same time, neat rounding form; finish by easting up with a shovel the loo earth out of the bottoms of the trenches evenly over the ridges, order that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c., may immed ately run off: on which account the trenches eight to have a gent. declivity, as a lodgement of water about the roots in winter is th greatest evil and danger they have to encounter; even greater tha the most severe frost of our climate The beds are to remain so until there is an appearance of har frost, when they should be covered with light dry litter, straw, leave of trees, fern, peas-haulm or the like, the better to preserve th crowns and roots from its rigor.

In this manner the roots will re main in perfect safety all winter, and in March they are to have their spring dressing as directed on page 212. When your artichoke plantation wants manure, lay on a coat of old rotten dung previous to the digging of the trenches, and cover it over with the earth as you throw if up; in the spring following dig it in.

This is a very proper time to begin to force asparagus in hot-beda; for the method see pago 128, &c. You should now, previous to the setting in of hard frost, cover Tov: any and ind be red the ad, 69; oh es, oh th 8, •

the asparagus beds containing the plants which you intend to force during the ensuing months, with as much straw, or light litter of some kind, as will prevent the ground from becoming frozen, so that you oan take up the roots with convenience and without injury when wanted. This method is preferable to taking them up and depositing them in a collar, in sand or earth, which is practised by some gardeners.

The young crops of Welsh onion, or Allium fistulosum, should be kept free from weeds; some may be thinned out for use in sulads &c., the remaining plants will stand the winter even if their foliage decay, and produce a plentiful supply early in spring Dried onions should be occasionally examined, and such as show a tendenoy to rot carefully pioked out.

The Rumex patientia, or patience dock, being a plant that afforde an early spring salad for boiling, and being perennial in root, is de serving of a place in the garden. The leaves are very large, long and suconlent, and are produced in great abundance; the plant may be propagated by sowing the seed any time this month while the ground continues opon, and the plants will rise freely in spring; or you may sow the seeds in Maroh or early in April, but those sown at this time will make stronger and earlier plants; the seeds may be pretty thick in drills eighteen inches asunder, and oovere about half an inch deep; when the plants are about two inches high thin them to the distance of eight inches from one anothor, and so let them remain, always keeping them free from weeds.

It may also be propagated by offsets from the root taken off in the spring or late autumn months, and planted in rows at the above distance, and by heading it down frequently during summer, as it starts to seed, you will increase the crops of foliage.

In the beginning of this month, dung and trench the ground that is intended for early crops, and lay it up in high narrow sloping ridges, partieularly if it be any way stiff, or of a heavy nature, to receive the benefit of the winter frosts, &c., which will enrioh, mellow, refresh, and sweeten it; besides, by getting as much of this work performed now as can be conveniently done, it will greatly forward and assist your affairs in spring, when hurried by a pressure of other business. Should the frost set in towards the latter ond of the month so ag to hind un the cround, and prevent the operation of trenching, you may cart or wheel manure into the different quarters whore wanted, which will help to forward your buginoss considerably.