October 1857

Weed and thin your advancing crops of spinage; in doing this observe to leave the best plants, and at the distance of three, four, or five inches asunder, according to the progress in growth of the successive crops, leaving the greatest space between the most forward in growth; or the plants may only be moderately thinned now in order to admit of drawing some out by degrees for use.

Some of the spinage sown in August will now be fit for the table, and if the plants were left too thick let them be thinned out regularly by pulling some up by the roots as they are wanted for use; but if the plants were properly thinned before, gather only the outside large leaves, and the others will advance for culinary purposes in regular succession.

Let it be particularly observed that spinage will rot off when the weeds spread over it, and that consequently it is necessary to keep it very clean.

In the first week of this month transplant from the sced-b others, of light rich earth, in a warm exposure, and of suct bions as to be covered with your frames on the approach of fi lettuce plants arising from the late August or early Septem ings. Plant them in rows fve or six inches distant ever that every second plant may be taken up either for use o planting, leaving the others sufficient room to grow and tr the greatest perfection. Likewise plant some stout plants immediately in frames fo the latter end of November, night till severe frosts set in. December, &c., covering thoma Lettuces designed to remain where sown till spring, sh Ост. les of la be са80; ttend f the tribe N. ais obour, or ard in i order table, t reguor use; ne outarposes serever sary to de into dimenost, the er Bowway, ç0 future heud in ruse in only at ould be duly thinned as they adrance in growth, and always kopt free from weeds.

The various successive crops of lettucs should be transplanted where they are to remain during winter, whether on warm bordors in slight hot-beds, or under frames and glasses, as early in this month as they shall have attained to two or three inches in growth; and indeed a judicious gardener will always have a regular succession of these plants to guard against every kind of disappointment, and the better to insure a constant supply. In the middle States, if the winter is tolerably mild, but particularly in the southern States, lettuces will stand in warm south bor. dors of light sandy ground with a very slight protection, and afford an early supply in spring; in these beds or borders they may planted at the distance of three or four inches every way, and the supernumerary plants may be taken up in March and planted either in hot-beds for forcing, or into other beds in warm exposures for heading in due season.

The lettuces which you plant in warm borders in the open grounc may, on the approach of winter, be protected by placing hoops over the beds, on which to lay mats or other covering in severe weather or by placing a frame of boards around them, on which to lay others slightly covered with litter when necessity requires; or by sticking n small branches of pine or cedar between the rowa, which wil yield them considerable protection, especially if some long, dry straw be laid over these in frosty or cutting weather. Or you may stick down forked sticks about a foot high, lay long poles from one fork to another, and on these bougns of pine or cedar pretty thick, and likewise around the edges of the beds; those branches being sup. ported ten or twelve inches above the plants will admit a free circuation of air and prevent mouldiness.

This protection is not to be given until the severe frosts commence, nor is it then to be taken entirely off, especially in sunshine, until after the general thaw takes place in spring; on very dry, mild days, when the sun does not sbine, or when it is not powerful, you may take off the covering for a few bours to air the plants; but you must as carefully guard against strong sunshine, especially towards the latter end of February, as against the most severe frosts; for after tender plants are severely pinched by frost, a too powerful sun literally dissolves and destroys them; wherens, if they were protected from such till gradually recovered and the commencement of free vegetation, there would not be the least danger of their success.

This is not common to lettuces only, but to oabbare and cauliflower plants, stock-gilly flowers, wai lowera, and every other kind that oan be in the least affected bs • frost. n the beginning of this month sow some of the brown Dutc ardy cabbago, and Hammersmith hardy green lettuces in a frame or frames, to be kept where sown, during winter, under the protection of glasses, &c., in order to afford a supply of young plants for forcing or planting out in the early spring mouthe.

The young cabbage plants arising from the seeds sown last mor and intended for the production of early summer cabbages should soon in this month as they shall have attained a sufficient size planted into the beds in which they are to remain during winter Let a bed or beds be prepared for them in a warm, well shelte part of the garden, where the sun has the greater power; for altho direct sunshine, when the plants are in a frozen state, is almost tain destruction to them, yet its influence will prevent that int frost so prevalent in colder aspects; and when the plants at times are screened from the direct rays of the sun, its reflected comforts without injuring them.

The bede should be made the width of your garden-frames, the plants set therein up to their leaves in rows about three or inches distant every way. When thus transplanted they will vive the winter much better than in the seed-beds, for their stems being buried into the earth, are protected thereby from a nate freezing and thawing, and the effects of the various change weather, than which there is nothing more injurious to plants. The stems of these and cauliflower plants are injured be the foliage, and it is of importance to keep thoso tender parts in equal temporature, by which they will be preserved much lo even if in a frozen state than if they were exposed to alternate 1 and heat.

Select good plants from the seed-beds, and, when planted, them a gentle watering to settle the earth about their roots, ob in not to apply it too hastily lest ou wash the ninto hearts: Put on the frames immediately, and also the lights, but the gi are now to be continued on only four or five days till the plants taken fresh root; observing during that period to shade the p with mats or other protection from the mid-day sun; but when have taken sufficient root the lights are to be taken totally off the plants left fully exposed till the setting in of smart frosts, ex in very cold nights or during the prevalence of cold beavy rains it is of considerable moment to have the plants tolerably hard the commencement of severe weather.

But if they happen to be in a backward state you should kee the glasses every night to encourge their growtb. When you have not the convenionce of glass, you may dofend plants sufficiently in winter by means of bourds and mats. Or, in the middle and gouthern States, you may plant some warm border to be defended in like manner, as before directe lettuces; and if the winter proves tolerably mild, they may ha to stand it pretty well. But if at any time, particularly toward end of February or early in March, you expose the plants to a r Bun, whilo they or the earth in which they stand are in a hi state, it will inevitably destroy them. You should in mild warm weather, when the sun is not por ст. th,, ag be red ugh зет- D86 uch cat and Our Surong ters of der Fore rost rivo eryheir Bses 18Te ants they and cept; for y on p on the in & 1 for • ppen the arm ozen rful, Oct. J give them an occasional airing, and the oftener this can be done, sc that they are covered up again in due time, the botter.

Similar precautions are to be used with plants in frames that ar frozen, but such as are not, will be improved by exposing them occa. sionally to as much air and sun as prudence may warrant till planted out finally in March, &c. By pursuing this method you will have much earlier and larger cabbages than oan be expected from plants sown in the early spring months.

The cauliflower plants are to be treated in every respect as directed for cabbage plants, with this difference, that as they are somewhat more tender they will require the protection and advantage of glagses and a good substantial covering to defend them from severe frosts, though in mild winters they, with due care, will survive under the protection of garden trames covered with boards and mats. As the cauliflower plants advance in growth, it will be proper to strew between them some dry tan, sawdust, or chaff, so as to cover the stems completely up to the leaves; this will afford great protection to those parts which are always found to be the most vulnerable to frost, &c.

If you find, in consequence of an unfavorable season or of your not sowing the cauliflower seed in due time, the plants to be rather backvard, you should prick them from the seed-bed on a slight hot-bed to promote their growth; but in this case you must be particularly attentive to give them plenty of air, that the plants may be stout and hardy on the approach of severe weather. You should carefully protect the cauliflower plants from excessive heavy rains, especially when the nights get pretty cold, for such are very injurious to them and frequently cause their stems to turn black, which always proves destructive. In the southern States, where the winters are mild, and where it i dificult to have good cauliflowers, except they can be obtained t an early season before the great summer heat sets in, which is very Inimical to those plants, the only sure way of obtaining them in the best perfection is, to be provided with a sufficient number of bell or hand-glasses, under which to plant them out finally about the latter end of this month.

The ground for this early crop should be very rich, tolerably light, in a warm situation, and where water is not apt to stand in winter. The ground is to be previously well manured with old hot-bed or other Trell rotted dung, and then ing it effectually and incorporating the dung well therewith. dug one good spade deep at least, break Then lay it out into beds three foet wide, and allow alleys a foot vide between them, for the convenience of going in to take off, put on, or raise the glasses, &c., stretch your line along the middle of the bed from one end to the othar and at avery three foot and a hal mark the places for the glasses, and for each, put in three, four, or more plants according to the size of the glasses, and within about six

inches of one another; close the earth well about their roots stems, and give them a moderate watering. When the whole planted set on your glasses, observing to place one over every p of plants as above The glasses are to be kept close down for about eight days ti plants have taken fresh root and begin to grow, whèn they are t raised on one side and supported with pieces of wood, stone, or b bats, &c., about two or three inches thick, or they may be supp with notched wooden pogs or forked sticks, placing them on the s side, one prop under each glass. In this manner they are to re night and day until the frosts set in; but if the advanced in growth before that period, which plants ar seldom be case, excopt in the more southern States, it will be proper to se glasses off in the middle of mild, dry days, but keep them al over the plants at night and in wet or frosty weather; in ke the glasses over the plants to defend them from excessive or i sant rains, if open mild weather, they must be raised to or inches on the warmest side, in the manner before observed, to a sufficiency of air.

When the frost sets in, close down the glasses, and keep the during its continuance; observing on a favorable change to giv pan attle air occasionally, and to pick off any mouldy or de As early in spring as it can be done with safety, plar the extra plants into other beds similarly propared, or ratber rected in April, lenving only one or two of the best under each at the same time draw the earth up around the stems of thos and raise the glassos on props as the plants advance in growi they become too much confined; then take off the glasses to observing to earth them up occasionally, and finally to treat th directed in May. In places where the winters are somewhat severe, mats or should be placed over and around each glass during the prev of hard frost.

This method may be practised successively in warm posures in the middle States; but it vill require more than or care to preserve them in good perfeation. The late spring 80wn cauliflowers will now begin to show heads; therefore they must. be diligently looked over tro o times a week, to break down some of the inner leaves upc flowers, which will protect them from sun, frost, and wet, eit Which would change their color and cause them to be unsight!

as possible before winter; likewise to the late cauliflowers and other of the cabbage tribe Jor. the o be ickrted outh nain such the: the rays ping neeshree dmit Ocт.]

Having the dung for the mushroom bed duly propared, and the spawn in readinesss, as advised in September, you should in the first week, or rather about the first day of this month, begin to make the bod. With respect to the rituation in which to make the bed, it should be in an elevated part of the hot-bed yard, or in some dry and well sheltered place. The bed ought to be made entirely on the surface f the ground, rather than forming a shallow trench in which t make the bottom part, as practised by some; for by the forme method it can be spawned quite to the bottom, and the lower part will not be chilled by atanding water in cold or wet weather, and particularly as the part sunk in the ground may be considered as totally useless.

The width of the bed at bottom should be from three to four feet, and any plan proportion t the quantity of mush. rooms required, or the quantity of spawn with which you are provided. Being furnished with a three tined fork, begin to make the bed by shaking some of the longest of the prepared dung evenly all along the bottom four or five inches thiok; then take the dung in goneral as it comes and work it into the bed, gradually narrowing it upwards suaking and mixing the dung as you proceed and beating it down with the fork layer by layer: proceed in this manner, still drawing in the sides of the bed till it terminates in a narrow ridge at top, so that the bed may be formed like the roof of a house: be careful that each end shall be sloped in like manner as the sides, and that all parts are made full and firm by beating with & fork as you proceed, to preserve uniformity and to prevent its settling down too much in an unequal manner: it should be fall three or three and a half feet perpendicular height when settled.

When the bed is finished, it should be covered with long straw, laid on neatly to keep out wet, and also to prevent its drying; in this state it is to remain about ten or twelve days, by which time it will be in a fit condition to be spawned; but to ascertain the state of the bed with the greater certainty, put in a few long sharp-pointed ticks into several parts thereof, pull out and feel these occasionally, carefully attending to the progress of its fermentation, and when you and the heat on the decline, and temperate, that is the time to pur in the spawn; for a violent heat, as well as too much wet, rould in. evitably destroy it. The bed being in a proper temperature, the covering of straw should be taken off and the sides made smooth and even; then lay all over the bed about an inch thick of light rich earth, not tet. this the span is to be planted in rows six inches asunder along the sides and onds, making the first or lovest row six inches from the surface of the ground, and proceeding upwards row by row to the top, observine to olace the pieces of gnawn ahont gir inches asunder and so far in as to touch the surface of the dang.

This done, Lay on the top of the ridge part of the loose or scattered spayo, shake some all over the bed; tben cover the whole about an inch a half deep with light rich earth, smooth the surlace neatly, and on a light covering of straw as before, just so thick as to kee ret and prevent the bed from drying As you find the bed decrease in beat and the weather grow increase the covering to a foot, eighteen inches, tio feet, or, in frost to such a thickness as may be effectually sufficient to pro Two or three beds may be made parallel to each other in this with wide alleys between them, and if the whole were to be co with a shed, especially in the middle and eastern States, it you found of considerable advantage in effectually preserving them too much wet, which is as essentially necessary as their preserv from frost.

If your bed is in a due temperature, the mushrooms will beg apocar in about four or five weeks after its being made, and proper care will continue in bearing several months: when you it ceasing to produce, in consequence of cold, lay a covering o stable dung seven or eight inches, or in hard frosts, near a foot all over the bed, observing to leave under this, boteen it an bed, about three inches thick of dry straw, covering the hot over with the remainder of the straw or litter; this will reviv heat, give new action to the spawn, and should be repeated na during winter as it may be found necessary, always observing t serve the bed from wet, cold, and frost.

Sometimes it happens that the beds do not produce any rooms till they have lain five or six months, so that they shoul be destroyed though they do not at first answer the expectatior such frequently produce great quantities afterwards, and cor bearing a long time. A good bed may continue productive for three, four, five, or twelve months; but by that time it is generally worn out; the then makes excollent manure, and the interior part sometime The great skill of managing these beds is that of keeping th a proper degree of warmth and moisture, never suffering then celve much wet: during the summer season they may be unc occavionally to receive gentle showers of rain, when thought sary, and in very dry seasons the beds should be now and opeued, gently watered, and covered up soon after; but the su covering need be no thicker than what is necessary to preser bed from the drying infuence of the weather This method of propagating mushrooms by the spawn shite fibrous radicles, is the most common; but the may a increased by seed.

When the latter method is used the gi cut out and put into the beds: or else they are infusod in wut the beds sprinkled with the infusion When the bed is in full beuring, it should be examined t three times a week, to gather the produce, turning off the carefully, and collecting the mushrooms white, and of a mc Ост. in to with find F hot Oor.]

bize: taking care to detach them from the bottom by a gentle twist, pulling the stens out clean, for if broke or cut off, the romaining parts would become putrid and full of maggots, and consoquently in fectious to the successional plants. Where mushrooms are greatly admired, and expense not considered an object, they may be had with more certainty, in greater abundance, and in a regular succossion, by making the bede as before directed, under a range of wood framing, made in the manner of a hothouse, or the top sloped both ways like the roof of a house; in such & place, they could be effectually defended from excessive wet, cold rost, and snow, and would consequently be very productive.

Likerise, if in this place there are shelves fixed three feet apart, eac having a front board, a bed of dung may be made in each, raised at top in a rounding manner, on which the spawn is placed, eartbed over near two inches thick, and then covered well with straw. Or you may, by mixing a quantity of strong horse dung, moist stable litter, and rich loamy earth together, have the spawn generated; by filling a pit with this mixture, the dung predominating so as to produce a slow and lasting fermentation, and covering the whole over with the spawn regular succession for several months. You may likewise make beds in the common hot-bed way, place thereon frames and glasses, and when the violent heat is abated, spawn the top all over, cover it with an inch and a half or two inches of earth, then thickly with straw, and lay on the glasses to protect the beds from rain.

Mushroom beds may be made in any month, when the woather is mild and dry, but those made in the beginning of this, are generally most productive, and besides, they retain more beat on the approach of winter than if made in September. However when a second bed is to be made it would be well to make one in each month. The most suitable temperature is between 55° and 60°, and the nearer the mushroom house is kept to this, the better they will succeed.

! Continue evory week to tie up some full grown endive for blanching, as directed on page 486, tying no more at a time than in proportion to the demand or consumption; for if it is not used soon aiter being sufficiently blanched, it becomes tender, and is subject to rot, especially if the season proves wet. Soma people blanch endive by laying boards or tiles flat on the plants; they will whiten tolerably well by this method, but their growth during the period ot waitening is greatIy obeoked thereby, which is certainly of some importance. Others draw earth around the endive plants after their being tied up in the usual manner; this may do very well in dry weather, bur if rain ensues, many of the leaves will rot, and the whole be greatly injured.

If you have stout endive plants, and neglected in September to with alleys between them, dig the alleys and spread a little of loose earth over the beds, leaving the edges full and straight. But the beds of close growing running plants, such as mint, pe royal, and the like creeping herbs will not well admit of dige therefore, after the stalks are cut down and the beds cleared weeds, dig the allege and strety some of the loose earth evenly the beds; and if the ground be rather poor, a aght top dressi very rotten dung will be of considerable service. This dressing will give proper culture and protection to the of the plants, a neat appearance to the whole, and in spring shoots will rise with renewed vigor.

Early in the month you may plant, where wanted, well i young plants of thyme, hyssop, winter savory, lavender, or the into four feet wide beds, or in any warm borders, in rows a asunder. You may also divide and plant roots of mint, cham horehound, and likewise any of the preceding or other herba perennial herbs that you are desirous of propagating. (For fu particulars, see former pages.)

Where a constant suocession of small salad herbs is required tinue to sow the seeds accordingly every ten or fourteen day ticularly cresaes, radish, rape, mustard and lettuce, to cut while y But in the middle and eastern States, these should be sown season, particularly towards the latter end of the month, in very borders under the protection of frames and glasses, for the g certainty of having a constant supply. The glasses should b totally off every warm day, and only put on at night or whe weather is very cold or excessively wet In the middle States, when the season is favorable, small an will grow free. enough anytime this month in warm borders, will be proper to have frames and glassos to place over them if sity should require it

The seeds of dill, alexanders, skirrets, rhubarb, and sea-kale nor be sown, for if kept out of the ground till spring, many o most moon, petal feds are a pret to in next month, expected to rise therefrom in March or April. (For the met

Ibig is a very proper season to plant roots of shallots, chiv io, and rocambole; for the method of planting them, see pa Jor. the nnying; from over g of roots the ooted like, foot mile, ceous rtber, сод-, рагoung• t this warm reater kept n the Inding but it necesshould f them or the any be ods of •) s, gare 206. OCI.]

For this purpose make choice of a piece of good, rich, light ground, hich dig a full spade deep, breaking it find as you proceed, rhen ready, select a number proportionate to the quantity of seed you in tend to save, of the firmest, largest, and best shaped onions, and of • the most desirable kinds, observing that each varicty is to be planted eeparately and remote from any other. The middle of October, or any time between that and the end of • the month is the most eligible time for planting, as the bulbs will have time to establish roots or fibres which will greatly support them during winter, and render them less liable to injury from frost tban if planted at a lator period Having your ground dug and the roots in readiness, lay it out inte four feet wide beds with a fourteen inch alley between each; ther strain a line about six inches within the side of a bed, and mith a spade throw out an opening or drill about fve inches deep the lengt of the bed, in which lay the onions, seated handsomely on their bottoms, about nine inches distant one from the other; then with a rake druw the earth into the opening so as to cover the bulbs from three to four inches above their crowns; romove the line a foot farther back, plant another row as before, and so continue till the first bed is planted containing four rows; atter which proceed with the obers in the same way to the end; then with a spade or shorel cast over surface. in March the leaves will appear above ground, after which they are to be kept perfectly free from weeds; many of the roots will pro duce three or four stalks each, which towards the latter part of May will have grown to their full height, when you must be provided with a sufficient number of stakes, about four feet long, to drive into the ground in the rows of onions, at the distance of from six to eigat oet stake from stake in'each and every row, to which are to be fas. tened double lines of packthread, rope-yaro, or small cord, to ran on each side of the stems of the onions a littlo below their heada, to support and prevent them from breaking down by wind and rain, and if those are tied together at intervals between stake and stake, they will the more effectually support the plants.

This is the more neces- Bary, as when the seeds are formed, the heads become very neary, and often break down even by their own weight, where they are not well secured, in which case there will be a considerable loss bold in the quantity and quality of the seed. When the seed is ripe, which is very perceirable br the capsul opening, and the seed turnine black the heads are to he cut off and spread thinly unon coarse cloths, in the son, till quite drr, observin to kaor them under shelter of nicht and in met other: then beat or rub out the seed. fan it clean, expose it to the sun for a day or tro after, and put it up in bags till manted for somiog.

Some people plat ho onion rich bai do end, get out a sufficient number, that work may be done in the firat of this month, but it ought not to be deferred longer; thes plants will keep better, if the season should prove favorable they may attain a tolerable size, than those of a more for growth. Or, to preserve late endive for winter use, as well from the ef of too much wet as frost, you may in the first week of this m prepare a sloping bank of light earth in a warm situation, the slo side fronting the south, and the bed raised two feet higher be than in front; on this plant, tolerably close, some stout, middle plants, and on the approach of severe weather place a frame glasses over the bed, and in hard frost fill the inside immedi over the plants with dry straw; thus they will be protected from and frost, and will whiten effectually. under the covering of s which should be turned occasionally to prevent that part nex plants and earth from becoming mouldy.

For farther particulara repecting the preservation of endiv next month.

Where young mint and tarragon are in request at all seasons may, towards the end of this month, make a slight hot-bed, ar the plants therein, as directed on page 27; this done, put on the g the young rising shoots from being soorched by the effeots of powerful sun beaming on the lights whilst close shut. The productions will be fit for use in about three weoks or a month afford a supply for a considerable time.

Towards the end of this month if the stalks of your asparagu Tellow, which is a sign of their having finished their growth f season, out them down close to the earth and carry them o ground; clear the beds carefully from woods, eradicating effectually and drawing them into the alleys. Asparagus beds in general will be greatly benefited by an dressing of good manure, and nothing is better or more suita them than the dung of old hot-beds; but if that is not to b woll rotted stable manure will answer; let it be laid equally or beds, one, two, or three inches deep, according to hecessity which stretch a line, and with a spado mark out the alley about eighteen inches to two feet wide, agreeably to their o dimensiong.* Then dig the alleys one spade deep, and spread a considerable the earth evenly over the beds; and as you advance let the weed * Asparagus, being & marine plant, is greatly benefitod by at dressing of salt, and there is no kitchen vegetable that is more in than this by the addition of guano, applied previous to commencing JOI. you d set 259e9, event a too oung, and a turn or the f the them Oor.] were raked off into the alleys be dug into the bottom of the trenches and covered a proper depth with earth; observe to make the edges of the beds straight, full, and neat, and to finish your work in a becoming manner, giving a moderate rounding to the beds, especially if the ground be inclined to wet.

In the southern States there may be planted in each alley a row of early cabbage plants; but in the middle and eastern States it would be well to fill them up with straw or old litter, well trampled down, which would in some measure provent the frost from entering that way to the asparagus roots. The seedling asparagus which was sown last spring should algo no have a slight dressing, that is, to clear the bed from weeds, and the to spread an inch or two in depth of dry, rotten dung over it to defend the crowns of the plants from frost. The asparagus which is intended for forcing, will likewise require to have the stalks cut down and the weeds drawn off into the alleys, which must be dug to bury them, and ne you proceed spread a little of the earth over the beds, after which they are to be treated as noticed next month.

I would not advise to attempt the forcing of asparagus sooner than November, as before that period the roots will not be completely matured; bowever, you may, about the middle or towards the latter end of this month, begin to prepare hot-beds for the reception of the roots early in November. (See the method on page 128.)

In dry weather continue to earth up celery and cardoons, to blanch them, as directed on page 500. (For the method of preserving them in winter, see next month.)

Cut down all the decayed flower stems and shoots of the various kinds of aromatic, pot, and medicinal herbs close to the heads of the Proth or the heret set a tone toe do the bature or well from weeds and litter, and carry the whole off the ground. lavender, thyme, hyssop, winter savory, soutbernwood, ange, rue, and the like undershrubby kinds will require only their tops or heads to be neatly dressed; but pot marjoram, baum, burnet, tarra. fennel, marshmallows, horehound herbaceous perennial herbs should be cut down pretty close to the ground. After this it will be proper in beds where the plants stand distant from one another, to lohtly die and loosen the around between them; or, in old beds it would be a great advantage to spread some reor equally over the surface, and with small spade o trowel to dio it in fall, between the plants: if they are in bedr in spring, but when planted at that season they are never s tive of seed as those planted in October, and are much more to blight; however when it is so determined, it should be Bonafter the middle of February it is possible to get th in a fit condition to receive them, and should not be cove than from to to three inches over their crowns; observing for that purpose such roots as have good properties and no from their tops.

A slight covering of strow or light litter laid over the planted beds, on the approach of hard frost, and raked cles soon as the leaves begin to appear in spring, would be of use it is not absolutely necessary to the preservation of the root

• You may now plant roots of the Cochlearia armoracia, radish, in dry, rich ground, agreeably to the directions given 217, but in moist soil; March will be a preferable time. This is a propor season to sow some seed of the Cochleari alis or common officinal scurvy-grass; from thissowing the pl rise freely in spring, and generally succeed better than i that season. do not mean what is commonly used for spring salad, and generally called scurvy-grass, for the so which I have given directions on page 488, under the name ter Cresses.

Give a general boeing and weeding to all your crops, and weeds immediately out of the garden, lest they shed their st lay the foundation of much trouble; likewise clean all vaca ters from weads, and from the decayed stalks of peas, beu bages, &c. Such spaces of ground as are now vacant should be dun dug, or trenched, that it may have the true advantage of t the winter season. If the ground is of a stiff or heavy nature, throw it up i •sloping ridges, for the reasons assigned on page 17.

About the latter end of the month you may begin to tak Toota of full grown carrots, beets, parsneps, turnips, Jerusal chokes, &c., which are to be preserved as directed in Novemt

In Georgia, South Carolina, and the parts of North Carolit • of the 35th degree of latitude, you may now sow the seeds o parsnep, beet, onion, parsley, cresses, spinage, and several or. of hardy garden vegetables; plant out from the seed-beds [Ост. producsubject done as ground ed more to select growths n off as, though r borseon page a officinants will s0wn at in early wing of of Winarry the eds and it guaras, cabred and allow in to high up the em articr. a south carrot, or kinds cabbage Ocт.]